Friday, October 12, 2007










Dublin Top Picks

London lite? Perhaps, but don't say that in front of the fiercely nationalistic Irish of Dublin. New wealth and a flood of skilled workers into the city after Ireland's entry into the European Union have turned the once sleepy capital into a dynamic and creative hub. Any comparison to London today is no longer far-fetched as Dubliners are showing a sophistication that is fast replacing the stereotypes of yore.

But rapid change has so far failed to diminish some of the qualities that make Dublin, and Ireland, so well loved. Dublin is one of the friendliest European capitals. and you'll immediately notice how helpful, patient and accommodating locals are. Despite a strong intellectual tradition in Dublin, the Catholic influence is palpable and its emphasis on family values and community is so intertwined with the national identity. And when modernity and tradition collide in Dublin, the result is a city that is all the more interesting to discover.

Here are some experiences to seek out in Dublin's amazing network of avenues and side-streets:

Cool Hunting

Don't be fooled by the high concentration of souvenir stores selling merchandise slapped with leprechauns and shamrocks. If you can get this stereotype out of the way, Dublin is brimming with creativity. Many sections of the city provide a cool mix of Georgian architecture with tasteful touches of modern design and the shops, ad agencies and design firms are a good example of this respect for traditional surroundings.

Temple Bar is where many of these fine examples of creativity are emerging. This is the preferred playground of the city's trend-bending set, but you won't find the haughtiness that often accompanies neighborhoods like this. Naturally, many of the shops and restaurants here are on the young and hip side, but don't be fooled, everyone is welcome. This is a good place to explore on foot as the cobble-stoned streets are original and the eclectic mix of establishments, especially the vintage stores, are fun to check-out.

Dublin's famously colorful doors are given a modern make-over here and the many art galleries are worth the hype. U2's Bono is part owner of the upscale boutique Clarence Hotel along the river and his celebrity aside, the Clarence is an ideal base for travelers intent on gallery and bar-hopping in Temple Bar.

There are less touristy sections of Temple Bar where serious creative work is done for a living and not for the benefit of a walk-in crowd. The area is littered with cafes, clothing and home accessories stores that cater to the city's creative professionals. Grab an espresso and watch creative Dublin's bourgeois bohemians go about their daily routine.



Urban Design

Dublin has few famous buildings, museums and tourist attractions but hop on one of the many tourist buses that ply the city's main arteries for a much more unique experience. The double decker buses take you through a typical tourist trail but you'll realize that the more interesting part of the trip is what lies in-between the designated sites.

Dublin's tradition of brightly-colored front doors make for a wonderful counterpoint to the all too often gray skies above the city. These cheerful accents bring life to the city and provide individual character to the endless rows of Georgian era buildings. Get off the bus and come closer to check out the interesting brass details owners attach to their doors.

Step back a bit and notice that the Georgian buildings are beautiful in themselves. Simple but elegant, the box-like buildings with flat facades are broken by an equally simple grid of glass panes that get smaller towards the top. Glass was expensive in those days and architects designed buildings around this reality. What was a practical consideration then is today a design motiff that remains good to look at.


Literary Tour

Dublin holds a special place in western literary tradition. Some of the best writers of modern times were Irish and Dublin was considered their natural home. James Joyce , Samuel Beckett and Oscar Wilde are some of the literary giants the city continues to pay tribute to and the Dublin Writers Museum is a good place to start your literary rediscovery of Irish literature and its contribution to the world of letters.

For a more dynamic adventure, the city offers various literary walking tours where you can follow the trail of pubs, houses, libraries and theaters that figure prominently in Dublin's proud literary heritage.

The great bastion of Irish intellectual tradition - Trinity College is a worthwhile destination for those who prefer a deeper exploration of this tradition. The campus is open to the public and the library is home to one of the world's oldest books - the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript dating back to 800 AD.

Better still, catch a live performance when in Dublin. If the production is in town, go see Samuel Beckett's Waiting for Godot at the Gate Theatre Critics consider The Gate's production of the stage play as the definitive interpretation of the Beckett masterpiece. Beckett himself was involved in the original stage production at The Gate and the play continues to run here 50 years after.

The building itself is a Georgian architectural masterpiece and the intimately cozy theatre is listed as one of the most important in the world.

Catholic Dublin

Some of the best free performances in Dublin are found in its churches. Dublin's Roman Catholic churches may seem plain in compared to those in Rome, Paris or Madrid, but the locals take their Catholicism far more seriously and this in itself makes a visit to a Dublin church special. At the Christchurch Cathedral the services are highlighted by the exuberant singing of the choir - and together with the beautiful stained glass windows - produce an altogether heavenly audio-visual experience. Exactly how Dublin's Catholic forefathers meant it to be.


Dublin on Foot


It's possible to cover central Dublin on foot. The public transport network works fine, but since the city is relatively compact, you're better off walking as this gives you more flexibility to stop whenever something interesting catches your attention. And in Dublin, there's so much that you won't find in guidebooks that are truly interesting.

The imposing street sculpture along O'Connel street is where you might want to begin. The street is lined with bookstores and department stores and weary shoppers can cool their heels under any one of the giant bronze sculptures of hares that dominate the street scenery and give it an Alice in Wonderland character.

For real-world shopping, head towards Henry street perpendicular to O'Connel. The street is closed to traffic so window shopping is encouraged. Popular British department stores like Marks and Spencer are here and so are many global brands. Admittedly, the shopping experience is rather straightforward so don't expect anything quaint - this is where Dublin's middle class go for their bulk buying requirements and bare necessities.

For a more interesting shopping experience you'll find the area behind Trinity College across the Liffey river a much better choice. The variety is wider and the merchandise a lot more chic (and pricey!). There's a good combination of global luxury brands and stuff produced by local designers. The mix of international cuisine should satisfy foodies tired of fish and chips and many of the streetside cafes in the area are good way-stations in between shopping and make for great vantage points for people-watching.

While you're at it, take time to sit around and enjoy Dublin's active riverside lifestyle. The banks of the Liffey river are lined with pubs, cafes and restaurants where a glass of Guinness at sunset time is one experience you shouldn't leave town without trying. (The world-famous Guinness brew is a home-grown favorite and the main brewery across town may be interesting to serious beer drinkers).

As the sun comes down, walk a few steps towards one of the many bridges that span the river and take in the view that has inspired the works of the likes of James Joyce - and soon, perhaps, your very own.

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