Costa de la Luz Top Picks

There's a reason why it's called the coast of light. The Costa de la Luz is that strip of Andalucian Spain that is blessed with glorious sunlight most times of the year. It's this quality of light - golden, but not too bright; warm, but not piercing - which makes the beaches, and sun drenched villages of Costa de la Luz a favorite escape for Europeans.

Away from the beaches (crowded in the summer months) the towns and cities of the southern portion of Andalucia are just as popular for their history, culture and agricultural produce - like sherry.

Here are a few of the towns of the Costa de la Luz you should visit:

Jerez

Known for its fine brandy and sherry exports, Jerez is much more than just about its proud viticultural tradition. The walk around the old town center is a wonderful break from the increasingly fast-paced lifestyle of Spain's northern cities.

Many Spanish towns were built around the main church so a visit to the San Salvador Cathedral is a good way to start any journey on foot as most of original Jerez is found in the periphery. The Cathedral is a towering structure in low-rise Jerez and a quick tour of any old Spanish church is sure to provide you a glimpse of the spiritual foundations of the place you're in.

The exteriors of the cathedral are best viewed from the small Plaza Encarnacion across where a cafe and bar are conveniently located. Take a table outside and enjoy the magnificent view of the Jerez Cathedral above you. A cafe con leche would be nice, but since this is Jerez, go ahead and try one of the city's famous brands of sherry.

Sherry is a dry white wine produced from the grapes grown in the hills of Jerez. The term sherry actually gets its name from the English bastardization of Jerez. There's no missing any one of the many centrally located bodegas or cellars such as that of Gonzalez Byass where sherry and brandy are aged in barrels and bottled for export. You can even book a tour of the bodega and sample these sherries and brandies - some just before they are about to be bottled. Many top sherries make it to the lists of Wine Spectator and Parker's so don't be fooled by the rather rustic premises where these wines are stored.

Siestas are still practiced in Jerez and a walk around town in the afternoon means you'll find many of the narrow streets empty. The streets in the middle of town are lined with orange trees and the natural citrus smell creates a wonderful ambience.

Jerez is part of Andalucian Spain and traces of its Moorish past are still evident in the brightly colored and symmetrically patterned tiles that adorn many homes. The Arab building turned church - Iglesia Santa Domingo - is also a stunning example of how Andalucian Catholics have managed to incorporate rather than eradicate Islamic culture.

Chiclana de la Frontera

Along the beautifully lit Costa de la Luz is Chiclana - a world-famous resort town where Spain's rich and famous keep vacation homes. Many come here for the golf courses, riding stables and of course, the seemingly endless stretch of sand that comes between you and the great Mediterranean sea.

Its all about nature here and a stay in one of the fabulous resorts is divine. I stayed at the Melia Sancti Petri - a sprawling Moorish inspired resort complex by the beach. Chiclana makes for a nice break from all that sight seeing and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries and get a tan at the same time.

Cadiz

Cadiz is rich in maritime history as this is where many of Spain's explorers have set sail from. The ideal location of Cadiz on the Mediterranean coast was where the Phoenicians and later the Romans set up an important trading post. The port is still the city's most prominent feature and, naturally, a major source of livelihood for its people.

Cadiz may lack the sophistication of that other Spanish port town - Barcelona - but the city manages to exude a provincial charm that is its best asset. I came to Cadiz during the Carnival season when almost everyone is out on the streets celebrating. Locals take the Carnaval seriously and its one of the few festivities in Spain that have remained immune to the pressures of the tourist trade.

Sanlucar de Barrameda

Sanlucar is off the beaten track as far as Andalucian tours are concerned and that makes this town even more appealing to those looking for a more authentic slice of the Spanish South. Not much English is spoken here and that's your first indication that this is indeed far from the tourist trail.

History buffs will like the fact that Sanlucar was where Ferdinand Magellan began his journey to circumnavigate the globe. Although the Portuguese explorer never returned to celebrate his feat (he was killed in a skirmish with a tribe of natives in the Philippines) his ship did and so did records of that trip. Today, the best private collection of maritime and historical records in the world is stored in the library of the Duchess of Medina Sidonia. The Duchess, who is a direct descendant of the original Dukes of all of Southern Spain, lives quietly in the Palacio Ducal where she oversees and updates the family's collection.

I had the chance to chat with the Duchess who likes to entertain guests in her study. Called the Red Duchess for her radical views of history, she never fails to engage guests in a lecture about the myths of Spanish history. Using her vast collection of manuscripts as evidence, she famously debunked accounts of Columbus' discovery of America. If she likes you, she may allow you into the huge library where these rare texts and maps are stored.

The Palacio itself is a museum of sorts where priceless works of art are displayed for the benefit of family guests. Since parts of the Palace have been transformed into a hotel, its possible to explore the meticulously tended gardens or sit in the courtyard. Hotel guests get to sleep in large quarters decorated with original art and antiques. Some living quarters have its own kitchen and patio which seem untouched by the passing of time or guests.

The Palacio is a good base to explore the rest of the small town of Sanlucar where its churches, plazas and coastal views are all magnificent. The seafood restaurants here are also top notch as is the wine to accompany a meal of fresh fish or squid - sherry.

The native Bodegas Hidalgos produces one of the most refreshing sherries coming out of the region. Called La Gitana (the gypsy), their trademark sherry begins its journey to the bottle in the foothills outside the town center. Here the famous palomino grape grows and thrives in the chalky soil of Sanlucar. The grape juice is stored and fortified in the vats here and then brought to the bodega in town for further fermentation.

Not all bodegas are organized for tours but if you know someone from the inside - take advantage and book a visit. Sherry gets its distinct flavor from micro climatic conditions like humidity so a tour of the insides of a bodega will tell you a lot about the quality of the sherry made there. In the Bodegas Hidalgos, large windows, damp soil and high ceilings allow the sea breeze to wash over and linger in the cellar to form the all-important mold that is critical in the solera or sherry making process.