Costa de la Luz Top Picks

There's a reason why it's called the coast of light. The Costa de la Luz is that strip of Andalucian Spain that is blessed with glorious sunlight most times of the year. It's this quality of light - golden, but not too bright; warm, but not piercing - which makes the beaches, and sun drenched villages of Costa de la Luz a favorite escape for Europeans.

Away from the beaches (crowded in the summer months) the towns and cities of the southern portion of Andalucia are just as popular for their history, culture and agricultural produce - like sherry.

Here are a few of the towns of the Costa de la Luz you should visit:

Jerez

Known for its fine brandy and sherry exports, Jerez is much more than just about its proud viticultural tradition. The walk around the old town center is a wonderful break from the increasingly fast-paced lifestyle of Spain's northern cities.

Many Spanish towns were built around the main church so a visit to the San Salvador Cathedral is a good way to start any journey on foot as most of original Jerez is found in the periphery. The Cathedral is a towering structure in low-rise Jerez and a quick tour of any old Spanish church is sure to provide you a glimpse of the spiritual foundations of the place you're in.

The exteriors of the cathedral are best viewed from the small Plaza Encarnacion across where a cafe and bar are conveniently located. Take a table outside and enjoy the magnificent view of the Jerez Cathedral above you. A cafe con leche would be nice, but since this is Jerez, go ahead and try one of the city's famous brands of sherry.

Sherry is a dry white wine produced from the grapes grown in the hills of Jerez. The term sherry actually gets its name from the English bastardization of Jerez. There's no missing any one of the many centrally located bodegas or cellars such as that of Gonzalez Byass where sherry and brandy are aged in barrels and bottled for export. You can even book a tour of the bodega and sample these sherries and brandies - some just before they are about to be bottled. Many top sherries make it to the lists of Wine Spectator and Parker's so don't be fooled by the rather rustic premises where these wines are stored.

Siestas are still practiced in Jerez and a walk around town in the afternoon means you'll find many of the narrow streets empty. The streets in the middle of town are lined with orange trees and the natural citrus smell creates a wonderful ambience.

Jerez is part of Andalucian Spain and traces of its Moorish past are still evident in the brightly colored and symmetrically patterned tiles that adorn many homes. The Arab building turned church - Iglesia Santa Domingo - is also a stunning example of how Andalucian Catholics have managed to incorporate rather than eradicate Islamic culture.

Chiclana de la Frontera

Along the beautifully lit Costa de la Luz is Chiclana - a world-famous resort town where Spain's rich and famous keep vacation homes. Many come here for the golf courses, riding stables and of course, the seemingly endless stretch of sand that comes between you and the great Mediterranean sea.

Its all about nature here and a stay in one of the fabulous resorts is divine. I stayed at the Melia Sancti Petri - a sprawling Moorish inspired resort complex by the beach. Chiclana makes for a nice break from all that sight seeing and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries and get a tan at the same time.

Cadiz

Cadiz is rich in maritime history as this is where many of Spain's explorers have set sail from. The ideal location of Cadiz on the Mediterranean coast was where the Phoenicians and later the Romans set up an important trading post. The port is still the city's most prominent feature and, naturally, a major source of livelihood for its people.

Cadiz may lack the sophistication of that other Spanish port town - Barcelona - but the city manages to exude a provincial charm that is its best asset. I came to Cadiz during the Carnival season when almost everyone is out on the streets celebrating. Locals take the Carnaval seriously and its one of the few festivities in Spain that have remained immune to the pressures of the tourist trade.

Sanlucar de Barrameda

Sanlucar is off the beaten track as far as Andalucian tours are concerned and that makes this town even more appealing to those looking for a more authentic slice of the Spanish South. Not much English is spoken here and that's your first indication that this is indeed far from the tourist trail.

History buffs will like the fact that Sanlucar was where Ferdinand Magellan began his journey to circumnavigate the globe. Although the Portuguese explorer never returned to celebrate his feat (he was killed in a skirmish with a tribe of natives in the Philippines) his ship did and so did records of that trip. Today, the best private collection of maritime and historical records in the world is stored in the library of the Duchess of Medina Sidonia. The Duchess, who is a direct descendant of the original Dukes of all of Southern Spain, lives quietly in the Palacio Ducal where she oversees and updates the family's collection.

I had the chance to chat with the Duchess who likes to entertain guests in her study. Called the Red Duchess for her radical views of history, she never fails to engage guests in a lecture about the myths of Spanish history. Using her vast collection of manuscripts as evidence, she famously debunked accounts of Columbus' discovery of America. If she likes you, she may allow you into the huge library where these rare texts and maps are stored.

The Palacio itself is a museum of sorts where priceless works of art are displayed for the benefit of family guests. Since parts of the Palace have been transformed into a hotel, its possible to explore the meticulously tended gardens or sit in the courtyard. Hotel guests get to sleep in large quarters decorated with original art and antiques. Some living quarters have its own kitchen and patio which seem untouched by the passing of time or guests.

The Palacio is a good base to explore the rest of the small town of Sanlucar where its churches, plazas and coastal views are all magnificent. The seafood restaurants here are also top notch as is the wine to accompany a meal of fresh fish or squid - sherry.

The native Bodegas Hidalgos produces one of the most refreshing sherries coming out of the region. Called La Gitana (the gypsy), their trademark sherry begins its journey to the bottle in the foothills outside the town center. Here the famous palomino grape grows and thrives in the chalky soil of Sanlucar. The grape juice is stored and fortified in the vats here and then brought to the bodega in town for further fermentation.

Not all bodegas are organized for tours but if you know someone from the inside - take advantage and book a visit. Sherry gets its distinct flavor from micro climatic conditions like humidity so a tour of the insides of a bodega will tell you a lot about the quality of the sherry made there. In the Bodegas Hidalgos, large windows, damp soil and high ceilings allow the sea breeze to wash over and linger in the cellar to form the all-important mold that is critical in the solera or sherry making process.

Dublin Top Picks

London lite? Perhaps, but don't say that in front of the fiercely nationalistic Irish of Dublin. New wealth and a flood of skilled workers into the city after Ireland's entry into the European Union have turned the once sleepy capital into a dynamic and creative hub. Any comparison to London today is no longer far-fetched as Dubliners are showing a sophistication that is fast replacing the stereotypes of yore.

But rapid change has so far failed to diminish some of the qualities that make Dublin, and Ireland, so well loved. Dublin is one of the friendliest European capitals. and you'll immediately notice how helpful, patient and accommodating locals are. Despite a strong intellectual tradition in Dublin, the Catholic influence is palpable and its emphasis on family values and community is so intertwined with the national identity. And when modernity and tradition collide in Dublin, the result is a city that is all the more interesting to discover.

Here are some experiences to seek out in Dublin's amazing network of avenues and side-streets:

Cool Hunting
Don't be fooled by the high concentration of souvenir stores selling merchandise slapped with leprechauns and shamrocks. If you can get this stereotype out of the way, Dublin is brimming with creativity. Many sections of the city provide a cool mix of Georgian architecture with tasteful touches of modern design and the shops, ad agencies and design firms are a good example of this respect for traditional surroundings.

Temple Bar is where many of these fine examples of creativity are emerging. This is the preferred playground of the city's trend-bending set, but you won't find the haughtiness that often accompanies neighborhoods like this. Naturally, many of the shops and restaurants here are on the young and hip side, but don't be fooled, everyone is welcome. This is a good place to explore on foot as the cobble-stoned streets are original and the eclectic mix of establishments, especially the vintage stores, are fun to check-out.

Dublin's famously colorful doors are given a modern make-over here and the many art galleries are worth the hype. U2's Bono is part owner of the upscale boutique Clarence Hotel along the river and his celebrity aside, the Clarence is an ideal base for travelers intent on gallery and bar-hopping in Temple Bar.

There are less touristy sections of Temple Bar where serious creative work is done for a living and not for the benefit of a walk-in crowd. The area is littered with cafes, clothing and home accessories stores that cater to the city's creative professionals. Grab an espresso and watch creative Dublin's bourgeois bohemians go about their daily routine.



Urban Design
Dublin has few famous buildings, museums and tourist attractions but hop on one of the many tourist buses that ply the city's main arteries for a much more unique experience. The double decker buses take you through a typical tourist trail but you'll realize that the more interesting part of the trip is what lies in-between the designated sites.

Dublin's tradition of brightly-colored front doors make for a wonderful counterpoint to the all too often gray skies above the city. These cheerful accents bring life to the city and provide individual character to the endless rows of Georgian era buildings. Get off the bus and come closer to check out the interesting brass details owners attach to their doors.

Step back a bit and notice that the Georgian buildings are beautiful in themselves. Simple but elegant, the box-like buildings with flat facades are broken by an equally simple grid of glass panes that get smaller towards the top. Glass was expensive in those days and architects designed buildings around this reality. What was a practical consideration then is today a design motiff that remains good to look at.


Literary Tour
Dublin holds a special place in western literary tradition. Some of the best writers of modern times were Irish and Dublin was considered their natural home. James Joyce , Samuel Beckett and Oscar Wilde are some of the literary giants the city continues to pay tribute to and the Dublin Writers Museum is a good place to start your literary rediscovery of Irish literature and its contribution to the world of letters.

For a more dynamic adventure, the city offers various literary walking tours where you can follow the trail of pubs, houses, libraries and theaters that figure prominently in Dublin's proud literary heritage.

The great bastion of Irish intellectual tradition - Trinity College is a worthwhile destination for those who prefer a deeper exploration of this tradition. The campus is open to the public and the library is home to one of the world's oldest books - the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript dating back to 800 AD.

Better still, catch a live performance when in Dublin. If the production is in town, go see Samuel Beckett's Waiting for Godot at the Gate Theatre Critics consider The Gate's production of the stage play as the definitive interpretation of the Beckett masterpiece. Beckett himself was involved in the original stage production at The Gate and the play continues to run here 50 years after.

The building itself is a Georgian architectural masterpiece and the intimately cozy theatre is listed as one of the most important in the world.

Catholic Dublin

Some of the best free performances in Dublin are found in its churches. Dublin's Roman Catholic churches may seem plain in compared to those in Rome, Paris or Madrid, but the locals take their Catholicism far more seriously and this in itself makes a visit to a Dublin church special. At the Christchurch Cathedral the services are highlighted by the exuberant singing of the choir - and together with the beautiful stained glass windows - produce an altogether heavenly audio-visual experience. Exactly how Dublin's Catholic forefathers meant it to be.


Dublin on Foot

It's possible to cover central Dublin on foot. The public transport network works fine, but since the city is relatively compact, you're better off walking as this gives you more flexibility to stop whenever something interesting catches your attention. And in Dublin, there's so much that you won't find in guidebooks that are truly interesting.

The imposing street sculpture along O'Connel street is where you might want to begin. The street is lined with bookstores and department stores and weary shoppers can cool their heels under any one of the giant bronze sculptures of hares that dominate the street scenery and give it an Alice in Wonderland character.

For real-world shopping, head towards Henry street perpendicular to O'Connel. The street is closed to traffic so window shopping is encouraged. Popular British department stores like Marks and Spencer are here and so are many global brands. Admittedly, the shopping experience is rather straightforward so don't expect anything quaint - this is where Dublin's middle class go for their bulk buying requirements and bare necessities.

For a more interesting shopping experience you'll find the area behind Trinity College across the Liffey river a much better choice. The variety is wider and the merchandise a lot more chic (and pricey!). There's a good combination of global luxury brands and stuff produced by local designers. The mix of international cuisine should satisfy foodies tired of fish and chips and many of the streetside cafes in the area are good way-stations in between shopping and make for great vantage points for people-watching.

While you're at it, take time to sit around and enjoy Dublin's active riverside lifestyle. The banks of the Liffey river are lined with pubs, cafes and restaurants where a glass of Guinness at sunset time is one experience you shouldn't leave town without trying. (The world-famous Guinness brew is a home-grown favorite and the main brewery across town may be interesting to serious beer drinkers).

As the sun comes down, walk a few steps towards one of the many bridges that span the river and take in the view that has inspired the works of the likes of James Joyce - and soon, perhaps, your very own.

Amsterdam Top Picks

Amsterdam continues to reinvent itself and that explains why the city has never lost its place on the list of most visited in the world. And what's there not to like? For one, Amsterdam is notoriously liberal and this has created a vibrant atmosphere for the arts to thrive. The city is spilling over with galleries, museums, exhibitions and shops specializing in the designs of homegrown talent.

Of course, tourists from all over the world continue to come here to view the famous cityscape of canals, dikes, the narrow buildings and let's admit it - Amsterdam's odd sex and leisure drug scene.

But it's hard to feel the romance of travel in a place that's overpopulated with backpackers all following the same trail guidebooks like Lonely Planet and Rough Guide recommend. Indeed, it's a bit hilarious seeing how much of a person's Amsterdam experience these days is determined by the editors of a handful of destination guides. Best to let your hair down, swallow your pride and follow the hordes as Amsterdam is much too small a city to find your own private space and much too publicized a place to discover unique experiences on your own.

So forget the road less traveled and enjoy all the best Amsterdam has to offer:

Amsterdam by Bike

Out of necessity and out of a strong will to minimize the city's carbon footprint, the city government encourages the use of bicycles. Biking isn't a fad though, the city's narrow streets make driving and parking next to impossible. You're better off walking or biking and renting one for the day is cheap and simple.

You'll be amazed by how much ground you can cover in a bike. I was able to visit all major points of interest in a single day - with time to spare. The only difficulty is navigating through the more crowded parts of town where the crowds are extra thick. But that's minor compared to the advantages of zipping through town and losing some calories along the way.

The Jordaan and Thereabouts

You'll enjoy your bike ride most in the Jordaan neighborhood and its general vicinity. It is for me the city's most laid-back and charming area. Tourist traps still haven't been established here so tour groups won't spoil your day here. Park your bike (and don't forget to lock it for safety) and stroll around the neighborhood for a taste of the boho lifestyle Jordaan is loved most for.

Of interest are the many shops that specialize in vintage furniture and clothing. I'm not a frequent traveler to Amsterdam so I have no idea if this is a passing fad or a permanent lifestyle choice for those living here. Nevertheless, exploring the shops for old toys, appliances and furniture is fun, fun, fun (more on these quirky shops later).

The tree-lined canals and the phalanx of apartment buildings are a visual treat. The neighborhood is home to many creative professionals and their ateliers can be seen from the street. You'll find the creations of these urban artisans displayed on the window sills like window treatment. These items - mostly offbeat and one of a kind - are popular with the locals and they provide individuality to their homes. And because Amsterdam's windows are famously large, you can catch a glimpse of how these homes are furnished and, indeed, how these novelty figurines, vintage furniture pieces and one-off accessories bring character to the homes.

In a time when minimalist designer pieces are turning the homes of yuppies into mirror images of each other - Amsterdam's love affair with the fun, frivolous and feminine is a refreshing change.

Dutch Masters

Who cares if the lines are outrageously long and the ticket prices outrageously expensive, there's no way you should miss the Rijkmuseum and the Van Gogh museum - two of the world's best collections of Dutch paintings - or for that matter, art in general.

Let's start with the Vincent Van Gogh Museum since the artist is a personal favorite. I've followed the trail of Van Gogh masterpieces around the world - the Met and MOMA in New York, the Detroit Institute of the Arts, the Musee d'Orsay, even the Suntory Museum in Tokyo, but nothing prepares you for the awesome display of 500 or so paintings housed in the Amsterdam museum - the most extensive collection of Van Gogh's art.

Though some of the artist's most famous works are scattered in museums and private collections all over the world, the masterpieces Potato Eaters, The Yellow House in Arles and various versions of Sunflowers, Irises and my personal favorite - Almond Blossoms are in the Amsterdam museum - including most of Van Gogh's self-portraits. (Photo of Van Gogh's Self-Portrait courtesy of the Van Gogh Museum web site).

But, the museum is so much more than just about the paintings. The collection, most of which were provided by the estate of Theo Van Gogh, the artist's brother and agent, also includes the letters of Vincent to his only sibling as well as an astounding number of sketches and notes by the artist. The experience is therefore an intellectual one rather than a purely visual one, and walking out of the museum doors leaves you with a deeper understanding of the artist depicted in poetry, film and song as one of the most misunderstood in history.

The nearby Rijkmuseum is better known for its collection of that other Dutch artistic giant - Rembrandt. Acknowledged as one of the most influential and innovative painters of all time - you won't be disappointed by the collection of Rembrandts here.

Time your visit to these two museums with a performance by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra - Amsterdam's native symphony and truly one of the world's best. The Concertgebouw or concert hall is across the Van Gogh museum so you hit three birds with one stone. One of my first classical albums - Beethoven's Violin Concerto - was performed by the world-famous orchestra in this same hall. The recording was sublime (audio engineers swear the concert hall has near-perfect acoustics) and I haven't stopped listening to classical music since.

Cool Shops.

Maybe it comes with age, or disposable income, but hunting for cool stores has become an indispensable part of my travel experience. Amsterdam is chock full of stores that best suit my taste for original, unique and well-designed things. Book shops are always the first place I seek out in a new city. Aside from my passion for the written word, bookstores and their selection of titles give you an idea of the kind of values people share in that neighborhood.

Here are some stores I recommend in Amsterdam. Lets start with book sellers:

Athenaeum. I don't speak or read Dutch so obviously my vote goes to a book seller that specializes in English language material. Don't expect a Barnes and Noble or Page One mega store in space starved Amsterdam though. Athenaeum is as good as it gets as far as floorspace is concerned so editing and curating titles is an art. The bias here is obviously in favor of intellectuals and the place is filled with academics and journalists. The adjoining news agency stocks a very extensive selection of international magazines and newspapers - a must for the historically globally-minded Dutch.



Mendo. This is a book shop that attracts designers, artists, photographers and creative professionals as all titles here - mostly coffee table books - are strictly on the creative industry. The well-designed shop floor also doubles as a picture gallery with the works of photographers and graphic designers displayed on the walls. Mendo is located on Berenstraat - one of my favorite streets so do take time to check out the neighboring shops and cafes in the area.

Architectura and Natura. Urban design nuts like myself will love this book shop - located in Leliegraacht - beside a quiet and quaint canal. As the name implies, books here focus on architecture and landscape, many of which are classics on the subject. Amsterdam is experiencing an urban renaissance with architects and urban planners joining hands to build a model of a sustainable community project over seven islets of reclaimed land. A&N is a good place to hook up with some of these visionaries or do your research on the engineering and architectural marvel that is Amsterdam.

Other cool shops:

For home furnishings and clothing, Amsterdam specializes in retro and vintage classics and though not all shops offer originals, many more sell brand new merchandise that incorporate the vintage vibe that's so popular in the city's design scene nowadays. For modern interpretations of vintage design, check out &K Centraal for colorful lamps and home accessories.

Mono along the same street also sells retro-inspired items. Bags and wallets are a store specialty. The fabric is vintage but the designs are modern. Best of all, these bargain-priced pieces are made in Holland and not in some factory in Vietnam or China. Mono proves the point that you can still make affordable products without having to offshore production.

Playfulness seems to be the quality locals look to most and Kitsch Kitchen is a haven for colorful and fashionably tacky home furnishings and houseware. Bright colored vinyl, formica and plastic are the staples here and it seems locals can't get enough of it.

For more formal and serious houseware, Amsterdam's delftware collectibles are a must. Delftware is unique to Holland and its basically glazed pottery with a silky lustre unlike regular china. The Gallerie d'Arte Rinascimento is a great place to browse for the delicate porcelain. Many items are decorated with Dutch motiffs like windmills and flowers, but you can choose more generic designs if you prefer a less souvenir-ish look.

Vintage clothing is also big in Amsterdam - whether reworked originals or modern copies. Zipper is the undisputed king of designer vintage wear (for now), but take your pick of the many fashion outlets that sell similar stuff. Items are well-curated and definitely free of that awful flea market smell.

For the real deal though, Amsterdam boasts of some really fascinating flea markets where the prices are far cheaper and the experience a lot more fun. A lot of it is junk thrown out by locals clearing out their narrow homes, but bargain-hunters can snap up hidden treasures like old books, vinyl records, vintage appliances and that backpacker favorite - authentic surplus Dutch army jackets and gear.


Canals, Bridges and Houses

Just like Venice, Amsterdam is crisscrossed by canals which give the city its charming sense of place. Whether on foot on or by bike, exploring the different canals and bridges that link them is a traveler's joy and a photographer's dream. Follow the canals and let them take you wherever they lead. More often than not it's to a quiet corner of the city where you can observe the street life and the wonderful array of tall and narrow houses with their colorful flower boxes abloom with tulips.

In case you've noticed, there's a reason why most buildings are this tall and narrow. Like the shophouses of Asia, property was once taxed based on frontage. So, many homes were built with extremely skinny fronts and far wider and longer backsides. The best looking buildings are often cramped side by side and at night the illuminated interiors of these houses (unobstructed by heavy drapery) resemble dioramas depicting the private lives of Amsterdam's population.