Amsterdam Top Picks

Amsterdam continues to reinvent itself and that explains why the city has never lost its place on the list of most visited in the world. And what's there not to like? For one, Amsterdam is notoriously liberal and this has created a vibrant atmosphere for the arts to thrive. The city is spilling over with galleries, museums, exhibitions and shops specializing in the designs of homegrown talent.

Of course, tourists from all over the world continue to come here to view the famous cityscape of canals, dikes, the narrow buildings and let's admit it - Amsterdam's odd sex and leisure drug scene.

But it's hard to feel the romance of travel in a place that's overpopulated with backpackers all following the same trail guidebooks like Lonely Planet and Rough Guide recommend. Indeed, it's a bit hilarious seeing how much of a person's Amsterdam experience these days is determined by the editors of a handful of destination guides. Best to let your hair down, swallow your pride and follow the hordes as Amsterdam is much too small a city to find your own private space and much too publicized a place to discover unique experiences on your own.

So forget the road less traveled and enjoy all the best Amsterdam has to offer:

Amsterdam by Bike

Out of necessity and out of a strong will to minimize the city's carbon footprint, the city government encourages the use of bicycles. Biking isn't a fad though, the city's narrow streets make driving and parking next to impossible. You're better off walking or biking and renting one for the day is cheap and simple.

You'll be amazed by how much ground you can cover in a bike. I was able to visit all major points of interest in a single day - with time to spare. The only difficulty is navigating through the more crowded parts of town where the crowds are extra thick. But that's minor compared to the advantages of zipping through town and losing some calories along the way.

The Jordaan and Thereabouts

You'll enjoy your bike ride most in the Jordaan neighborhood and its general vicinity. It is for me the city's most laid-back and charming area. Tourist traps still haven't been established here so tour groups won't spoil your day here. Park your bike (and don't forget to lock it for safety) and stroll around the neighborhood for a taste of the boho lifestyle Jordaan is loved most for.

Of interest are the many shops that specialize in vintage furniture and clothing. I'm not a frequent traveler to Amsterdam so I have no idea if this is a passing fad or a permanent lifestyle choice for those living here. Nevertheless, exploring the shops for old toys, appliances and furniture is fun, fun, fun (more on these quirky shops later).

The tree-lined canals and the phalanx of apartment buildings are a visual treat. The neighborhood is home to many creative professionals and their ateliers can be seen from the street. You'll find the creations of these urban artisans displayed on the window sills like window treatment. These items - mostly offbeat and one of a kind - are popular with the locals and they provide individuality to their homes. And because Amsterdam's windows are famously large, you can catch a glimpse of how these homes are furnished and, indeed, how these novelty figurines, vintage furniture pieces and one-off accessories bring character to the homes.

In a time when minimalist designer pieces are turning the homes of yuppies into mirror images of each other - Amsterdam's love affair with the fun, frivolous and feminine is a refreshing change.

Dutch Masters

Who cares if the lines are outrageously long and the ticket prices outrageously expensive, there's no way you should miss the Rijkmuseum and the Van Gogh museum - two of the world's best collections of Dutch paintings - or for that matter, art in general.

Let's start with the Vincent Van Gogh Museum since the artist is a personal favorite. I've followed the trail of Van Gogh masterpieces around the world - the Met and MOMA in New York, the Detroit Institute of the Arts, the Musee d'Orsay, even the Suntory Museum in Tokyo, but nothing prepares you for the awesome display of 500 or so paintings housed in the Amsterdam museum - the most extensive collection of Van Gogh's art.

Though some of the artist's most famous works are scattered in museums and private collections all over the world, the masterpieces Potato Eaters, The Yellow House in Arles and various versions of Sunflowers, Irises and my personal favorite - Almond Blossoms are in the Amsterdam museum - including most of Van Gogh's self-portraits. (Photo of Van Gogh's Self-Portrait courtesy of the Van Gogh Museum web site).

But, the museum is so much more than just about the paintings. The collection, most of which were provided by the estate of Theo Van Gogh, the artist's brother and agent, also includes the letters of Vincent to his only sibling as well as an astounding number of sketches and notes by the artist. The experience is therefore an intellectual one rather than a purely visual one, and walking out of the museum doors leaves you with a deeper understanding of the artist depicted in poetry, film and song as one of the most misunderstood in history.

The nearby Rijkmuseum is better known for its collection of that other Dutch artistic giant - Rembrandt. Acknowledged as one of the most influential and innovative painters of all time - you won't be disappointed by the collection of Rembrandts here.

Time your visit to these two museums with a performance by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra - Amsterdam's native symphony and truly one of the world's best. The Concertgebouw or concert hall is across the Van Gogh museum so you hit three birds with one stone. One of my first classical albums - Beethoven's Violin Concerto - was performed by the world-famous orchestra in this same hall. The recording was sublime (audio engineers swear the concert hall has near-perfect acoustics) and I haven't stopped listening to classical music since.

Cool Shops.

Maybe it comes with age, or disposable income, but hunting for cool stores has become an indispensable part of my travel experience. Amsterdam is chock full of stores that best suit my taste for original, unique and well-designed things. Book shops are always the first place I seek out in a new city. Aside from my passion for the written word, bookstores and their selection of titles give you an idea of the kind of values people share in that neighborhood.

Here are some stores I recommend in Amsterdam. Lets start with book sellers:

Athenaeum. I don't speak or read Dutch so obviously my vote goes to a book seller that specializes in English language material. Don't expect a Barnes and Noble or Page One mega store in space starved Amsterdam though. Athenaeum is as good as it gets as far as floorspace is concerned so editing and curating titles is an art. The bias here is obviously in favor of intellectuals and the place is filled with academics and journalists. The adjoining news agency stocks a very extensive selection of international magazines and newspapers - a must for the historically globally-minded Dutch.



Mendo. This is a book shop that attracts designers, artists, photographers and creative professionals as all titles here - mostly coffee table books - are strictly on the creative industry. The well-designed shop floor also doubles as a picture gallery with the works of photographers and graphic designers displayed on the walls. Mendo is located on Berenstraat - one of my favorite streets so do take time to check out the neighboring shops and cafes in the area.

Architectura and Natura. Urban design nuts like myself will love this book shop - located in Leliegraacht - beside a quiet and quaint canal. As the name implies, books here focus on architecture and landscape, many of which are classics on the subject. Amsterdam is experiencing an urban renaissance with architects and urban planners joining hands to build a model of a sustainable community project over seven islets of reclaimed land. A&N is a good place to hook up with some of these visionaries or do your research on the engineering and architectural marvel that is Amsterdam.

Other cool shops:

For home furnishings and clothing, Amsterdam specializes in retro and vintage classics and though not all shops offer originals, many more sell brand new merchandise that incorporate the vintage vibe that's so popular in the city's design scene nowadays. For modern interpretations of vintage design, check out &K Centraal for colorful lamps and home accessories.

Mono along the same street also sells retro-inspired items. Bags and wallets are a store specialty. The fabric is vintage but the designs are modern. Best of all, these bargain-priced pieces are made in Holland and not in some factory in Vietnam or China. Mono proves the point that you can still make affordable products without having to offshore production.

Playfulness seems to be the quality locals look to most and Kitsch Kitchen is a haven for colorful and fashionably tacky home furnishings and houseware. Bright colored vinyl, formica and plastic are the staples here and it seems locals can't get enough of it.

For more formal and serious houseware, Amsterdam's delftware collectibles are a must. Delftware is unique to Holland and its basically glazed pottery with a silky lustre unlike regular china. The Gallerie d'Arte Rinascimento is a great place to browse for the delicate porcelain. Many items are decorated with Dutch motiffs like windmills and flowers, but you can choose more generic designs if you prefer a less souvenir-ish look.

Vintage clothing is also big in Amsterdam - whether reworked originals or modern copies. Zipper is the undisputed king of designer vintage wear (for now), but take your pick of the many fashion outlets that sell similar stuff. Items are well-curated and definitely free of that awful flea market smell.

For the real deal though, Amsterdam boasts of some really fascinating flea markets where the prices are far cheaper and the experience a lot more fun. A lot of it is junk thrown out by locals clearing out their narrow homes, but bargain-hunters can snap up hidden treasures like old books, vinyl records, vintage appliances and that backpacker favorite - authentic surplus Dutch army jackets and gear.


Canals, Bridges and Houses

Just like Venice, Amsterdam is crisscrossed by canals which give the city its charming sense of place. Whether on foot on or by bike, exploring the different canals and bridges that link them is a traveler's joy and a photographer's dream. Follow the canals and let them take you wherever they lead. More often than not it's to a quiet corner of the city where you can observe the street life and the wonderful array of tall and narrow houses with their colorful flower boxes abloom with tulips.

In case you've noticed, there's a reason why most buildings are this tall and narrow. Like the shophouses of Asia, property was once taxed based on frontage. So, many homes were built with extremely skinny fronts and far wider and longer backsides. The best looking buildings are often cramped side by side and at night the illuminated interiors of these houses (unobstructed by heavy drapery) resemble dioramas depicting the private lives of Amsterdam's population.