Singapore to Penang on the Orient Express.
Top Picks:

There's something about traveling by train. And I don't mean modern bullet trains that zip through the countryside faster than most cars can. I mean old trains. The ones that blow whistles and move slowly over old railway lines.

It must be nostalgia. Though it all seems like a blur to me now, I do recall childhood train journeys to the beach and countryside. In those days, it was the only way to get to the country. Provincial highways and airstrips were still uncommon and car and plane rides were not yet the preferred way to travel.

For sure, those train rides of the past were slow, unreliable and after the second hour on board - rather uncomfortable. But it all seemed magical then. Cutting through rice paddies, sugarcane fields and rural villages always made a city kid like me giddy with excitement. Somehow, train rides take you through a place - up close and more personal than any car or plane can. And that's what gave me the idea of traveling through Southeast Asia on the Orient Express - a luxury train built to recreate the experience of train travels of the past.

The Orient Express is familiar to anyone with a passing knowledge of luxury travel. But I suspect most of us have come to know of the Orient Express from the Agatha Christie novel and movie adaptation "Murder on the Orient Express". The Orient Express where Hercule Poirot famously solved the murder mystery on board the train traveled across Europe. Now, the same company that runs the legendary train service, the Eastern and Oriental, have introduced the concept to Southeast Asia for those travelers looking to enjoy the same legendary experience and history.

The route I chose was the Singapore-Bangkok leg of the journey. It takes three days with full stops in the Kuala Lumpur and Butterworth stations in Malaysia. Three days on a train in this day and age is no joke, but I was looking forward to see if, indeed, train rides are still the idyllic and magical journeys I've always remembered and reimagined them to be.

It turns out that they somehow still are. The highlights:

Train Stations.

Every train ride begins at the station, obviously. We hardly notice these stations anymore, but when we allow ourselves to - they tell us so much about the country's history. At least as far as old train stations are concerned.

The Tanjong Pagar train station in Singapore is one of these. The station has seen better days and it's always empty now that travelers prefer the convenience of bus rides and air travel. Beneath the atmosphere of neglect is a long and interesting history preserved in the colonial building.

From the imposing sculptures to the striking murals that adorn the station walls, you'll discover what was once the most important railway line for the British this part of the world. The murals and sculpture all depict themes of industry and agriculture for it was here that much of British Malaya's prized commodities like tin, rubber and palm oil were taken from the hinterlands to the port of Singapore. In fact, the railway line the Orient Expresses travels on is little changed from that used to transport cargo and laborers in colonial times.

Interestingly, an existing treaty between Malaysia and Singapore states that Tanjong Pagar station is still a part of Malaysia and this is why you clear Malaysian immigration in Singapore. Right past the immigration counter is the platform where the elegant Orient Express waits for passengers to board.

The Kuala Lumpur station is even more grand than that of Tanjong Pagar. It will be just about time for dinner when the train stops at KL. Passengers have enough time to explore the station grounds and, indeed, it's worth getting off. The station is built using the colonial architectural style common in British India. Even at night, the towering white building is majestic. It is one of the main attraction in KL and passengers get a rare view of the building right from inside it.

Service the Eastern and Oriental way.

I've taken trains all over the world but none of that prepared me for the kind of service the Orient Express provides. Right from the beginning. Every passenger is assigned a compartment steward - which is more like a personal butler. They usher you on board and on to your compartment for a quick tour of the room and its amenities. Just like a hotel. Your butler is on call 24/7 and the mostly Thai staff are as gracious and gentle as the best Bangkok hotels can offer.

Your butler makes sure you have nothing else on your mind except enjoying the journey. He lets you know when and where to dine. He takes your passport, fills out travel documents for you and does much of the immigration work as well. Best of all is the sight of the butler for breakfast and afternoon tea. This is one of the highlights for me - the knock on the door at 730 in the morning - just as the sun is rising over the view of forests and plantations in your window. A European breakfast of bread, cereal, yogurt and coffee is served with elegant silverware in your compartment and you can't help but feel really special.

The Train Compartments.

There are three compartments to choose from. The Presidential Suite, naturally, is at the top. It's huge by train standards with generous space for two adults and a couple of visitors. A large and comfortable banquette can be folded out into a wide bed at night. The suite also comes with a full-sized desk and separate dressing room, en-suite toilet and bath for privacy and convenience.

At the bottom end is the Pullman compartment. It's elegant enough but quite tight for two when the beds are folded out at night. During the day there's just enough space to enjoy staying inside and watching the view passing through the window. This may be entry-level but it comes with its own toilet and bath.

I stayed in what is called a State compartment and it's only slightly smaller than the Presidential Suite and has pretty much eveyrthing the suite has although with a tad less space. What I enjoyed the most was the generous amount of glass. Wide and clear picture windows are the most important thing for me in a train compartment. Not only does this bring the landscape indoors; it also keeps you from feeling claustrophobic. I found myself mesmerized by the scenery passing outside. Trains bring you closer to the kampongs or villages, plantations and tropical jungle like no other type of commercial transport can. Exhilirating.

Much must be mentioned about the interiors of all compartments. You've seen the movies and the Orient Express compartments all feel production designed by Holywood pros: cherry wood panelling, brass fixtures, oriental carperts, hand-embroidered upholstery and teak wood period furniture all help to conjure images of the golden days of train travel.

Slowness.

Three days on tracks may be much too long for most travelers. Not for me. Slowness is a virtue in my book. These days traveling has become much like a sport: fastest is best. We take the quickest route to everything and we try to pack each day with as many things to do as possible. The unintended result is fatigue. So much so that the minute we arrive home we start longing for yet another vacation. Its crazy. On the train I found myself with time for reading, writing and yes, dozing - half-awake while taking in the slowness of Southeast Asian provincial life visible from the window.

Travel always makes me introspective and the slowness on board magnifies that. This unintended self-discovery unleashes profound thoughts and a part of your personality not often seen in your routine day to day encounters. This injects depth and eloquence into your conversations with others on the train (and vice versa). When the slowness of solitude ends, the slowness of conversations begin. And with it the sincerity and open-mindedness that comes from travelers from all over the world sharing the same train ride with you.

There are many opportunities to strike up conversations with other passengers. There's a reading room for those who prefer to read in the company of others. Also a saloon and bar where cocktails and snacks are served throughout the day.

Dining.

Those looking forward to such conversations or new transcontinental friendships will likewise enjoy the idea of sharing a table with other passengers. Since much of the journey is spent in the compartment, meal time is an opportunity to meet other passengers on board.

But the real highlight of meal time is the food. Frenc-style but with touches of spices and ingredients found in the Southeast Asian region. It's hard to imagine how such good food can come out of such a small and narrow kitchen on board. Unlike even first class on a plane, the food is cooked on board and always fresh. Not a single meal was bad or even mediocre. The meals were all fine-dining quality and so was the crystal and silverware.

The Eastern and Orient emphasize the dining experience and purposely attempt to recreate an old-fashioned feel. Fine wine and champagne are served and the strictly formal dress code for dinnertime adds to this old world elegance and refinement. The combination of formal dress and the dimly lit elm and cherry wood dining carriage with its crystal chandeliers makes everyone feel fabulous and romantic. No wonder the Orient Express is famous among lovers looking to escape the world for a couple of enchanted evenings.

The Southeast Asian Countryside.

It's a fleeting way to exerience this side of Southeast Asia and surely nothing beats trekking the backroads and jungles of the region, but for those who want to travel through the region and not necessarily in it, the Orient Express provides a wonderful backdrop for such a journey.

Whether in the privacy and comfort of your airconditioned compartment or in the open observation deck at the end of the train, there's no denying the thrill of watching the region passing by with the wind in your hair.

Because the railway line was originally meant to transport goods and laborers to and from the region's plantations and forests, the train journey continues to pass through these very same parts of Malaysia and Thailand. Of course, vast hectares of jungle have since given way to plantations and there are modern road networks and electricity lines visible along the way. But for most of the journey you are right up close to rural villages and jungles that seem little changed from the sepia toned photographs taken over a century ago. In some areas you can literally reach out and touch villagers and the overgrown branches of old forest cover along the raliroad tracks.

One such highlight is crossing Bukit Merah in Northern Malaysia just before sunrise. The train stops right in the middle of the raised tracks above the lake and if you get up early enough you can head for the observation deck to catch the first slivers of sunrise over the lake and the cool early moring air.




Penang.

Passengers not continuing to Bangkok have the option of getting off at Butterworth station across Penang Island. Butterworth was an important gateway to Georgetown in Penang where the British first settled and where a large Chinese community was established. The Orient Express makes an extended stop and all passengers are taken on a ferry ride across the Straits of Malacca and on to Penang Island where Georgetown is located.

I've written about Penang in an earlier post and it's a terrific opportunity for those interested in observing one of the most culturally interesting destinations in Southeast Asia. After a long train ride, Georgetown provides a wonderful break for when you begin to miss the vibrant atmosphere and rush of city life.

Kuala Lumpur
& Georgetown, Malaysia:
Top Picks

Malaysia, Truly Asia. That's how the country's tourism industry chooses to promote itself. Of course Malaysia is not truly Asia. And not because it's not Asian - it's as Asian as any other, well, Asian country. Just that no country can claim to be such. Asia, after all, is merely a convenient geopolitical construct - in fact, a rather inaccurate one (though not as passe as, say, using the term Orient).

Countries within Asia are just as diverse, even more perhaps, in terms of ethnicity, culture, religion and skin color than other continents. So Malaysia may be part of the Asian continent, but truly Asian? Simply truly Malay would have been more convincing - though nevertheless controversial. But if Malaysia is any different from its Malay neighbors such as Indonesia, Brunei and the Philippines, it must be in its very Malay-ness. Indeed, Malaysia is the only country that has and continues to obsessively reimagine Malay culture and employ it as a tool for nation-building and political organization. The upside is some pretty spectacular architecture and urban planning. The downside: a suffocatingly rigid social and political system that is only starting to unravel.

I over analyze. But its hard not to. As a country of federated States carved out by the British colonizers, you get the impression (a historically correct one) that Malaysia is, to borrow Anderson's observation, an imagined community. One that is still struggling to define itself amid the identity politics imposed by the government to counter an economically and intellectually influential minority of immigrants of Chinese and Indian ancestry.

Fortunately for the traveler, it's this ethnic mix that provides the country with cosmopolitan edge. If it weren't for cities like Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown in Penang, Malaysia would offer the visitor little more than pretty landscapes dotted by traditional villages (kampungs) and some well-conserved national parks. Which are wonderful. But incomplete.



KUALA LUMPUR

The Malaysian capital is what you would expect from any Asian capital city. Modern buildings, highways, elevated train systems - you get the picture. And, its an impressive one. Kuala Lumpur or KL is green. It should be since Malaysia's tropical location gives it some of the best rainforest cover int he world.

KL is clean. Not in the way Singapore is, but close enough owing to strict government laws locals would rather not break.

Above all, KL is well preserved. The Japanese did invade what was then called British Malaya but never had to raze it to the ground as the British surrendered in haste just as they did in Singapore. The British loss of face is today's traveler's gain. Colonial buildings remain close to what they looked like when the British were establishing this port town by the river (Kuala Lumpur Stands for mouth of the muddy river).

Unlike Singapore, colonial buildings are scattered around the metropolis so its an effort to visit them by foot. Still, its worth the effort. The British always left behind majestic monuments of their power. Don't miss independence square and the KL train station.

Modern KL.

The remnants of colonial Malaya are literally in the shadow of modern buildings that seem to purposely dwarf British influence. Malaysia's nation-building mission after independence in 1957 was so intense, public money was lavished on modern monuments that could best inspire Malaysian identity.

The KL tower is no longer the tallest, but at night the communications tower glitters like sapphires and diamonds against the backdrop of black sky. The tower has a revolving restaurant on the top floor but its rather tacky - though the spectacular 360 degrees view of the city makes up for it.

The tallest tower is currently the Petronas Twin Towers. It's quite an architectural marvel if you're into engineering and it does provide a sense of magic to KL's skyline. Coming into the city at night from the airport, the Twin Towers are awe-inspiring. The towers gleam, no, they glitter at night. Even in the morning, the all glass, steel and metal structure radiates in the daylight.

Obviously, the Petronas Towers serve more than a commercial purpose (there remain many vacant floors, I'm told). They are symbols of the political elite's optimism and, yes, vanity. Its the edifice complex at play once again. The Towers were built for symbolic reasons. Malaysia was on the rise as a tiger economy and the ruling political coalition under Dr. Mahathir needed an icon to announce the country's arrival on the world stage. It worked. Briefly, it was the world's tallest structure. It was a lightning rod for world opinion about Malaysia's spectacular transformation into a manufacturing and information technology global player.

Malaysia's economy has since plateaued but the Towers remain as iconic as ever. There is also another symbolism at play - if you look closely enough. The Towers use Moorish and Islamic motifs in design and shape. Malaysia's story, it should be known, was going to be more than just an economic miracle. Her success story was also meant to show the Western world that an Islamic state can be modern and progressive as well. Indeed, before Dubai, there was already Malaysia.

Shopping.

The less geo-politically aware need not notice. Or bother. De-contextualized, the Towers still make for very captivating photographs and the massive shopping mall within is a luxury shoppers dream. Conservative Muslim Malaysians may not be the primary target market for such scandalously excessive merchandise - its the city's large expat community and even larger ethnic Chinese population that crowd the malls on weekends. Don't miss the only stand alone Jimmy Choo shoe boutique in Southeast Asia. Choo is Malaysian born and even if the city's Muslim women would never wear his iconic stilettos, the shop at KLCC is always full.

Shopping, make that window shopping, is such a wonderful activity in KL. The shiny new malls are fantastic and the airconditioning makes a trip to these places a perfect way to escape the constantly hot and humid climate. Spoiled shoppers looking for a Hong Kong and Singapore style experience won't be disappointed by the new Pavillion mall along Bukit Bentang. From its own Illy cafe and Paul Frank store to the usual luxury goods purveyors like Zegna, Chanel and Jaguar, the is one classy place to cool your heels.


Hardcore tourists won't have a hard time finding affordable local crafts to take home. But if you really want to go for the best, there are two things you mustn't leave town without: pewter and batik.

Malaysia is the world's leading pewter manufacturer. Its an attractive alloy of tin, copper and antimony. The country is a global tin trader and when properly processed, polished and designed - pewter can match sterling silver in beauty and purpose. A visit to the Royal Selangor museum and workshop gives you more of the metal's history in Malaysia and in the adjacent factory you can see for yourself how pewter products are finished on site.

The other truly beautiful product that comes out of Malaysia is batik. The Indonesians are much more advanced in batik making and design but a young Chinese-Malaysian designer is making waves with her own take on this ancient art. uses very traditional methods to create very modern and stylish designs. Her batik pop art designs of Malaysian celebrities and local flora are collectibles.



Street Food.

Great tasting street food more than makes up for the rather bland offerings found in city hotels and restaurants. There's a mind boggling array of Chinese, Indian, Arab and Malay dishes to choose from in the city's many outdoor food courts. Dirt cheap too. The only rule here is to be adventurous. Chinese food is the easiest on the palate and its the best way to prepare seafood. Also for pork dishes since pig meat is taboo among Muslims (and the aroma coming from it still a source of tension among neighbors). Chinese food is often a Straits Chinese variety that mixes local ingredients and cooking styles. The fried flat noodle dish char kay tiew is to die for.

For the real Malay deal, you must try the satay. The barbecued beef, chicken and lamb skewers on their own are fine but become irresistible with the carefully prepared peanut-based satay sauce. Then complete the meal with a sweet and hot cup of Tea or Kopi prepared the traditional and rather theatrical way. The coffee or tea is "pulled" - a technique where the liquid is poured back and forth between two cups to allow air to provide some body. Let's just say it works.


Malay-Islamic Culture.

Islam is everywhere and everyone makes sure you notice it. For one, there are mosques in every neighborhood. Not just mosques - gigantic mosques the size of a stadium. Unlike the churches and chapels of Europe, Malaysian mosques are carefully guarded by the local faithful and outsiders are made to feel just that. This makes curious non-Muslims (i.e. tourists) attempting to see the mosque's interiors uncomfortable. In fact, only Muslims are allowed beyond a certain point so the farthest you'll reach is the inner courtyard - and only if you're properly dressed.

The Malaysian Muslims I met may were all serious and devout, but far from being extreme or fundamentalist in their faith. They can be a bit defensive about religious matters but that's also because discussing religion in public is taboo - an offshoot of official paranoia fueled by memories of race riots in the past. And don't be surprised to see much of the city in limbo during the mandatory morning, afternoon and evening prayers. I've seen drivers stop in the side of the road to pray. The man driving me had to leave me in the car so he could catch afternoon prayers in a nearby mosque. You have to admire this kind of commitment, but this very commitment, especially when inflamed and incited, could also lead to the kind of intolerance our world now has to face.

Nearby Excursions: Putrajaya.

One of the most magnificent mosques in KL is the salmon-pink Putra Masjid in Putrajaya. It has to be since it sits right beside the equally grand palace of the Malaysian Prime Minsiter. Technically Putrajaya is not part of KL but the two are inseparable because of their mutual interdependence.

Putrajaya was built from scratch to become the nation's political center of gravity. The Prime Minister's office and the other state ministries are all located along a narrow but well planned strip of land alongside the Putrajaya river. Predictably, it was Dr. Mohamad Mahathir's idea to build a shining new city for a shining new Malaysia. The master plan included an IT industry corridor called Cyberjaya. The dot com bust of the late nineties put an embarrassing end to Mahathir's vision and if not for the government buildings here, Putrajaya would seem like a ghost town; a half-finished real estate development gone bankrupt.

But if only for the mosque, the grand government buildings with their Islamic architectural details and the pretty view of the immaculately clean river that runs through it, Putrajaya is worth the hour's drive from downtown KL. And yes, the multi-billion expressways leading to it are just unbelievable.


Genting Highlands.

Honest guidebooks warn Genting Highlands is a tourist trap. But locals don't see it that way. Surely, the entire Genting development atop one of Malaysia's taller mountainsides is one sprawling artificial wonderland. But basing it on the crowds that make the long trip from KL, the place is popular. And if you leave some of that snobbish traveler mindset behind, you too could find it fun.

For one, its cool up in the highlands. Cool as in cold, I mean, with temperatures hitting 16 degrees in the late afternoon. It hot KL, that's a welcome relief.

The cable car ride to the top of the ridge is said to be the longest one in Asia and it takes you through old rain forest cover. In case you get it confused, Genting Highlands is not the same as Cameron Highlands - the picturesque former British hill station in the north. Genting is named after the gaming (that is, gambling) and entertainment conglomerate, so not surprisingly, it is one big gaming and entertainment complex - yes, with all the kitschy things associated with it: circus rides, video arcades, KTV booths, Hollywood-themed restaurants - you get what I mean. You either love it or hate it. But taking a deeper look at the amusement offered here, you begin to understand that despite the periodic anti-American rhetoric from the politicians, Malaysians, like all others, do embrace Western culture - even the most artificial and gaudy versions of it.

GEORGETOWN, Penang.

Unless you're in town for business or unless you're a correspondent reporting on Malaysia's increasingly interesting political scene, a few days in Kuala Lumpur should do the trick of covering all the interesting sites and experiences. Which is why a trip far from the capital is mandatory if you have the time. Beach-types can head to Langkawi and nature trippers have the Bornean forests as an option. For culture vultures and history buffs there's Georgetown in Penang.

Penang Island is a short flight from KL but Malaysia's astoundingly good expressways get you there in 4 to 5 hours running at 120kmh. There's also a scenic train ride from KL if you're interested in cutting through the country's back roads and kampungs.

Penang, and Georgetown in particular, have the graceful old-world charm that KL lacks. Not that KL doesn't have the history or the monuments to prove it. Just that KL doesn't seem very interested in its past unlike the way Georgetown does.

Colonial Georgetown.

Named after King George IV, Georgetown is the earliest British settlement along the Straits of Malacca and an important trading and military post at that. Entire portions of the city are lined with colonial administration buildings, churches and Christian schools. Despite the heat, walking is the only way to take in the cityscape. The next best way is on the trishaws that come with canopies to protect you from the sun. Either way, the view from the ground is cinematic. Its like walking into a Merchant-Ivory set. UNESCO has finally listed Georgetown as a World Heritage Site and why it took this long is a mystery.

The Town and City Hall by the shoreline is one of the best examples of the colonial architecture found along the Straits - including Singapore. Another part of town called "Millionaire's Row" is lined with colonial mansions purchased by Malaysia's richest families.

The grand dame of the Georgetown hotels, the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, is on this same strip and has managed to keep its majesty intact despite recent ownership problems. An interesting collection of old photographs of celebrities, politicians, diplomats and writers can be found in the lobby. Proof of its proud heritage. The hotel was established by the Armenian Sarkies brothers, the same family that established The Raffles Hotel in Singapore.

Ethnic Neighborhoods.

As a trading hub of the East India Company in the 18th century, Georgetown attracted its share of immigrants, most notably, the Chinese. Soon clans of Chinese immigrants working as dock hands and petty traders settled in the town and occupied the seafront where land was easily available. Today the original houses built on stilts still occupy the port island's jetties. As of late, these rather rundown, but entirely colorful colonies, have been attracting the attention of travelers looking beyond the whitewashed walls of the colonial buildings. With all the British gone, their emptied out buildings have been converted into museums, local schools, shops and administrative offices. As for the jetty colonies, their alleyways still breathe with the life of the early Chinese settlers - later called the Straits Chinese. Walking through these neighborhoods you can still see life being played out as it used to in a previous century.

As the Chinese ascended the food chain in Penang, so did their choice of living quarters. The more prosperous families became traders and moved inland to the center of Georgetown. Their shop houses and family temples are perhaps the best examples of Straits Chinese or Peranakan architecture in Southeast Asia. Better even is the fact that these buildings continue to function as shops, restaurants and warehouses - though updated to appeal to a modern clientele.

Take your time to explore the narrow lanes and try the local Chinese cuisine. The restored and antique Chinese furniture for sale is of a very high quality and so is the traditional pottery and ceramics.

It seems that wherever the British settled in Malaya the Chinese soon followed. And so did immigrants from India. The British often took their subjects from the Indian subcontinent to do the dirty work for them. But although the British uprooted themselves from Southeast Asia after the Second World War, the Indians remained - as did their mark on the city. The Little India in Georgetown is not very big - just a small network of streets - but its easily one of the most colorful and surely the noisiest. Try the famous curries here or do a bit of shopping for Indian fabric.

Seaside Penang.

Apart from its architectural attractions, Penang is also a popular seaside resort. The beaches are clean and fine to the touch (though not as white as I wished) and lined with luxury resorts. There are two Shangri-la properties on a single beach, including the very first hotel established by the Malaysian-born Kuok family.

In all, Georgetown and Penang are grossly underrated destinations. That's good for those of us who like to avoid the crowds and overpriced and over-touristed places.

Kyoto Top Picks

I'm often asked which destination I consider to be the best or the most memorable. The safe answer, of course, is that there are many. After all, the answer often depends on your current mood. But, when pushed for just one city, Kyoto in Japan almost always tops the list.

Unlike the rest of the country which is constantly undergoing reconstruction, Kyoto stands the best chance of keeping its skyline and streetscape intact. Not that there haven't been attempts to redesign the city. In Japan, construction companies, real estate giants and local politicians are always on the prowl for some new project to build or some new area to cement over. Even Kyoto, Japan's so-called spiritual center and old imperial capital, has had portions of the city ravaged by overzealous urban planning. In fact, the Kyoto that greets you just as you get off the shinkansen from Tokyo is the farthest thing you imagine it to be. The Kyoto Tower (the Japanese love towers) is the first building you see - an image so out of place in a city of temples and medieval streets - it makes you wonder if the Kyoto of our imagination is precisely that - imagined. An image preserved in guidebooks with the sole purpose of drawing in tourists, perhaps.

Kyoto, after all, is as urbane and modern as any other Japanese city. Most of us, however, come to this city with tunnel-vision - seeking out only the images of Japan's graceful past and ignoring the cement monstrosities that have become the daily reality for Kyoto's residents.

Well, that's the great thing about being a short- time visitor. We don't have to deal with the realities of Kyoto's slowly receding traditional streetscape. Instead, we can choose to focus on the images that conform to the Kyoto of geishas, temples, rock gardens and cobblestone streets that we all come to this city for. And I have no problem with that.

My Top Picks:

Getting Lost. Going with the Flow.

At first, getting lost coming out of the train station was the last thing I wanted. Getting lost anywhere in Japan is precisely the last thing you want to happen. English is hardly spoken - and even if it is - Japan's streets are so tangled you probably couldn't navigate them despite clear instructions on how to.

Well, this is Kyoto, right? So like the Zen monks of this temple city, I ditch my map and go to wherever the roads, streets and lanes lead me. In Kyoto, those streets will always lead you to a temple, a garden or a ryokan - the traditional Japanese inn. I've never tried exploring a foreign city this way but it in Kyoto it works. You follow your instincts (or your heart) and not the guidebook writer's or the JTB's (Japan Tourism Bureau) recommendations. Often the road leads you nowhere. But once you drop the tourist frame of mind - which is always seeking some important site - and replace it with a, well, zen-like frame of mind - things start to get really interesting. Like Basho's haiku - I try sitting still - quietly - and observe the environment unfold around me: a bamboo grove whistling in the wind or a meandering brook reflecting the midday sun. Basho's words come back to me and describe the moment accurately:

"Sitting silently
Doing nothing
Spring comes
And the grass grows by itself."

The only difference is that it's autumn, but these images of Kyoto have perhaps changed little since Basho composed these words. Surely, a lot has changed since, but even Kyoto's ungainly telephone posts take on a poetic form. Kyoto is so much more beautiful viewed this way - and with tourists like me occupying every piece of space available - surprisingly peaceful and meaningful. The trick is to let go of every impulse to observe Kyoto like everyone else - covering as much ground as possible in the least amount of time. Like Basho, all it takes sometimes is a quiet corner to observe the autumn leaves change - doing nothing, sitting silently - just as Zen monks continue to do today within Kyoto's many temples.

Temples and Gardens.

Ryoan-ji. A visit to Ryoan-ji is perhaps the most meaningful of all. And if there's only one temple to see - this is it. Not because it's the most famous one in Kyoto, but because there is true beauty in its simplicity. We're used to being awed by grand temples like Angkor Wat and the Taj Mahal. Ryoan-ji is in every way different and yet, for me, even more awe-inspiring. Instead of massive structures and intricate art, Ryoan-ji is all about the absence of these. Ryoan-ji - the temple grounds, pond and stone garden - is all about the presence of space. This is the Japanese way - the Zen way. There is beauty in emptiness and reason in non-reason - to borrow a Zen Buddhist teaching.

Empty your mind and let go of expectations. If you come to Ryoan-ji seeking stillness and peace - you won't find it. At least not with too many tourists crowding the place. But if you take your time - the temple empties out and you too will find your quiet space - as I did - right in front of Ryoan-ji's rock garden. Pictures make the garden seem much larger than its thirty meter dimensions. But it doesn't matter. The Zen garden's beauty is precisely in its simplicity and perfect scale in relation to the its surrounding walls and trees. 15 rocks floating on a bed of white gravel are laid out in a way that encourages the mind (or no-mind) to meditate. Some say the garden is a representation of the universe. Again, it doesn't matter what it represents. What matters most is how the garden - and the space around it - connects with something deep inside you. This verse from William Blake comes back to me in my stillness:

"To see the world in a grain of sand
Heaven in a wild flower
To hold infinity in the palm of your hand
And eternity in an hour".

Blake, of course, is Western but his words were triggered by the same meditative observation of nature that Ryoan-ji inspires. I have had moments of genuine consciousness in my life - and my time in Ryoan-ji is one of the most powerful moments yet.

The connection you have with Kyoto's temples is a very personal one so seek out the one that best inspires you. Here are other temples to visit:

Kennin-ji. This is another Zen temple and the fact that it's less well known should make it less crowded and therefore give you more space to simply be. You will also have a better chance of observing monks in the grounds and main hall. You really don't have to be into Zen and meditation to experience the beauty of the temple. There's enough "scenery" to make a photographer happy. For one, there's Daio-en - a beautiful rock and white gravel garden similar to Ryoan-ji, a pagoda, tea house and authentic Zen paintings which decorate the main hall's sliding doors.

Daisen-in. For many, Kyoto's rock gardens are often a case of "seen one - seen them all." That may be true for those looking at the city the traditional way: from the point of view of a tourist going after more bang for the buck in terms of experiences to record and mind-blowing memories to accumulate. If you're not into top ten lists then a visit to Daisen-in for even more samples of Zen gardens will be a rewarding detour. The main attraction of the Zen sub-temple is the rock garden in karesansui style where scenes of nature are represented - almost faithfully - using rocks and gravel.

Zuiho-in. If you're starting to develop an interest in Zen rock gardens then you must visit this rather unique temple that integrates Christian icons. This is because the garden was dedicated to a Buddhist feudal lord who converted to Christianity when the Portuguese Jesuits first arrived in Japan. Of particular interest is the Garden of The Cross where rocks form the crucifix and also the Garden of the Blissful Mountain said to represent the Sermon on the Mount.


Chion-in. Make sure temple fatigue doesn't start to kick in because there's so much more to visit if indeed you want to understand the spiritual core of the Japanese. Chion-in is a massive complex and this gives you the chance to find many quiet corners for contemplation. The Hojo garden within is a break from the sparse gravel and rock garden type common in Zen temples and instead infuses grass, shrubs, trees and a pond. Surely, the effect is more ornamental than meditative but when the leaves turn red in the autumn the effect is entirely spiritual.

Chion-in also features the San-mon, a massive main gate which is the largest of its kind in Japan. There's also the Daisho-ro, a grand bell that is 11 feet tall and 9 feet wide. This giant bell is rung 108 times on new year's eve in one of Japan's most important rituals.

Kodai-ji. This sprawling temple complex houses numerous sub-temples, tea houses, gardens and important works of art. In this way, Kodai-ji represents a complete Zen temple experience. But unlike Ryoan-ji which draws you to sit silently and focus on the rock garden, Daitoku-ji makes you want to wander around its many meandering paths that take you through ponds, bamboo groves and manicured gardens.

Kiyomizu. Compared to the others, Kiyomizu may seem unremarkable at first. Not until you catch the majestic views of Kyoto from the elevated wooden veranda of the main temple. It's a breathtaking image of Kyoto that will stay with you forever.


If you still have the time or appetite for more temples, do seek out Ninna-ji and its sprawling complex of pagodas and gardens. I am especially fond of the Koto-in Zen temple because of its beautiful all-moss and tree garden - a different interpretation of the traditional Zen garden. The Japanese maple trees or momi-ji are irresistible in the autumn when the leaves turn a vivid red. The view from the temple veranda is absolutely unforgettable.

One last thing about Kyoto's temples. These are also wonderful places to view traditional Japanese images. On Sundays, the temples are full of women in their kimono best. You won't quite understand what these women are saying but just watching the colorfully dressed graceful images is a delight in itself.





Ryokans.

With so much of traditional Japan seen in Kyoto's temples and gardens by day, why choose to stay in a Western style hotel at night? Instead, stay at a ryokan - the traditional Japanese inns. You can choose from a wide range of ryokans - from theme park-like tourist traps to more authentic luxury inns. Be it high-end or simple, all ryokans share a basic concept: to live, eat and sleep the traditional Japanese way. This means occupying sparsely furnished rooms with tatami flooring and shoji screens that separate sleeping quarters from other activities like dining. The more luxurious ryokans provide views to a traditional Japanese garden and serve gourmet traditional Japanese meals. All ryokans however provide the traditional communal Japanese bath of piping hot water - often overlooking a garden.

Expect the unexpected in a ryokan as the rituals that accompany bathing and sleeping will make you feel rather clumsy and truly gai-jin. Just let go and allow the ryokan staff to do their work - whether it be setting up your futon for the night or putting on your yukata robe before a bath. Read up on ryokan protocol if you don't like embarrassing yourself. Just remember - leave your shoes outside the inn at all times.

Geisha Gazing.

Japan's legendary geisha are a dying breed but Kyoto still gives you the best chance of catching these colorful ladies going about their daily routines in public. Unless you're an insider, it's hard to tell between the more senior geishas and the junior maikos. But it doesn't really matter, these elite ladies who make a living entertaining an equally elite class of men are a remarkable sight - if you do get to catch them.

You might see some of them - often in pairs or groups - walking around Kyoto's Gion entertainment district. Don't think brothels and karaoke bars, though. Geishas entertain behind the closed doors of upscale bars and restaurants but that doesn't mean they deliberately hide themselves from the public. They walk freely - although shyly - around town, but be sure to spot the real ones from poseurs who just want the attention of unsuspecting tourists. The real ones may flash you a smile but will hardly ever stick around for a photo-op. The hedonic culture of geishas is an interesting flip-side to Kyoto's temple culture. It's this duality, often misunderstood by foreigners, that makes Kyoto, and indeed, all of Japan, so wonderfully fascinating.