Kuala Lumpur
& Georgetown, Malaysia:
Top Picks

Malaysia, Truly Asia. That's how the country's tourism industry chooses to promote itself. Of course Malaysia is not truly Asia. And not because it's not Asian - it's as Asian as any other, well, Asian country. Just that no country can claim to be such. Asia, after all, is merely a convenient geopolitical construct - in fact, a rather inaccurate one (though not as passe as, say, using the term Orient).

Countries within Asia are just as diverse, even more perhaps, in terms of ethnicity, culture, religion and skin color than other continents. So Malaysia may be part of the Asian continent, but truly Asian? Simply truly Malay would have been more convincing - though nevertheless controversial. But if Malaysia is any different from its Malay neighbors such as Indonesia, Brunei and the Philippines, it must be in its very Malay-ness. Indeed, Malaysia is the only country that has and continues to obsessively reimagine Malay culture and employ it as a tool for nation-building and political organization. The upside is some pretty spectacular architecture and urban planning. The downside: a suffocatingly rigid social and political system that is only starting to unravel.

I over analyze. But its hard not to. As a country of federated States carved out by the British colonizers, you get the impression (a historically correct one) that Malaysia is, to borrow Anderson's observation, an imagined community. One that is still struggling to define itself amid the identity politics imposed by the government to counter an economically and intellectually influential minority of immigrants of Chinese and Indian ancestry.

Fortunately for the traveler, it's this ethnic mix that provides the country with cosmopolitan edge. If it weren't for cities like Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown in Penang, Malaysia would offer the visitor little more than pretty landscapes dotted by traditional villages (kampungs) and some well-conserved national parks. Which are wonderful. But incomplete.



KUALA LUMPUR

The Malaysian capital is what you would expect from any Asian capital city. Modern buildings, highways, elevated train systems - you get the picture. And, its an impressive one. Kuala Lumpur or KL is green. It should be since Malaysia's tropical location gives it some of the best rainforest cover int he world.

KL is clean. Not in the way Singapore is, but close enough owing to strict government laws locals would rather not break.

Above all, KL is well preserved. The Japanese did invade what was then called British Malaya but never had to raze it to the ground as the British surrendered in haste just as they did in Singapore. The British loss of face is today's traveler's gain. Colonial buildings remain close to what they looked like when the British were establishing this port town by the river (Kuala Lumpur Stands for mouth of the muddy river).

Unlike Singapore, colonial buildings are scattered around the metropolis so its an effort to visit them by foot. Still, its worth the effort. The British always left behind majestic monuments of their power. Don't miss independence square and the KL train station.

Modern KL.

The remnants of colonial Malaya are literally in the shadow of modern buildings that seem to purposely dwarf British influence. Malaysia's nation-building mission after independence in 1957 was so intense, public money was lavished on modern monuments that could best inspire Malaysian identity.

The KL tower is no longer the tallest, but at night the communications tower glitters like sapphires and diamonds against the backdrop of black sky. The tower has a revolving restaurant on the top floor but its rather tacky - though the spectacular 360 degrees view of the city makes up for it.

The tallest tower is currently the Petronas Twin Towers. It's quite an architectural marvel if you're into engineering and it does provide a sense of magic to KL's skyline. Coming into the city at night from the airport, the Twin Towers are awe-inspiring. The towers gleam, no, they glitter at night. Even in the morning, the all glass, steel and metal structure radiates in the daylight.

Obviously, the Petronas Towers serve more than a commercial purpose (there remain many vacant floors, I'm told). They are symbols of the political elite's optimism and, yes, vanity. Its the edifice complex at play once again. The Towers were built for symbolic reasons. Malaysia was on the rise as a tiger economy and the ruling political coalition under Dr. Mahathir needed an icon to announce the country's arrival on the world stage. It worked. Briefly, it was the world's tallest structure. It was a lightning rod for world opinion about Malaysia's spectacular transformation into a manufacturing and information technology global player.

Malaysia's economy has since plateaued but the Towers remain as iconic as ever. There is also another symbolism at play - if you look closely enough. The Towers use Moorish and Islamic motifs in design and shape. Malaysia's story, it should be known, was going to be more than just an economic miracle. Her success story was also meant to show the Western world that an Islamic state can be modern and progressive as well. Indeed, before Dubai, there was already Malaysia.

Shopping.

The less geo-politically aware need not notice. Or bother. De-contextualized, the Towers still make for very captivating photographs and the massive shopping mall within is a luxury shoppers dream. Conservative Muslim Malaysians may not be the primary target market for such scandalously excessive merchandise - its the city's large expat community and even larger ethnic Chinese population that crowd the malls on weekends. Don't miss the only stand alone Jimmy Choo shoe boutique in Southeast Asia. Choo is Malaysian born and even if the city's Muslim women would never wear his iconic stilettos, the shop at KLCC is always full.

Shopping, make that window shopping, is such a wonderful activity in KL. The shiny new malls are fantastic and the airconditioning makes a trip to these places a perfect way to escape the constantly hot and humid climate. Spoiled shoppers looking for a Hong Kong and Singapore style experience won't be disappointed by the new Pavillion mall along Bukit Bentang. From its own Illy cafe and Paul Frank store to the usual luxury goods purveyors like Zegna, Chanel and Jaguar, the is one classy place to cool your heels.


Hardcore tourists won't have a hard time finding affordable local crafts to take home. But if you really want to go for the best, there are two things you mustn't leave town without: pewter and batik.

Malaysia is the world's leading pewter manufacturer. Its an attractive alloy of tin, copper and antimony. The country is a global tin trader and when properly processed, polished and designed - pewter can match sterling silver in beauty and purpose. A visit to the Royal Selangor museum and workshop gives you more of the metal's history in Malaysia and in the adjacent factory you can see for yourself how pewter products are finished on site.

The other truly beautiful product that comes out of Malaysia is batik. The Indonesians are much more advanced in batik making and design but a young Chinese-Malaysian designer is making waves with her own take on this ancient art. uses very traditional methods to create very modern and stylish designs. Her batik pop art designs of Malaysian celebrities and local flora are collectibles.



Street Food.

Great tasting street food more than makes up for the rather bland offerings found in city hotels and restaurants. There's a mind boggling array of Chinese, Indian, Arab and Malay dishes to choose from in the city's many outdoor food courts. Dirt cheap too. The only rule here is to be adventurous. Chinese food is the easiest on the palate and its the best way to prepare seafood. Also for pork dishes since pig meat is taboo among Muslims (and the aroma coming from it still a source of tension among neighbors). Chinese food is often a Straits Chinese variety that mixes local ingredients and cooking styles. The fried flat noodle dish char kay tiew is to die for.

For the real Malay deal, you must try the satay. The barbecued beef, chicken and lamb skewers on their own are fine but become irresistible with the carefully prepared peanut-based satay sauce. Then complete the meal with a sweet and hot cup of Tea or Kopi prepared the traditional and rather theatrical way. The coffee or tea is "pulled" - a technique where the liquid is poured back and forth between two cups to allow air to provide some body. Let's just say it works.


Malay-Islamic Culture.

Islam is everywhere and everyone makes sure you notice it. For one, there are mosques in every neighborhood. Not just mosques - gigantic mosques the size of a stadium. Unlike the churches and chapels of Europe, Malaysian mosques are carefully guarded by the local faithful and outsiders are made to feel just that. This makes curious non-Muslims (i.e. tourists) attempting to see the mosque's interiors uncomfortable. In fact, only Muslims are allowed beyond a certain point so the farthest you'll reach is the inner courtyard - and only if you're properly dressed.

The Malaysian Muslims I met may were all serious and devout, but far from being extreme or fundamentalist in their faith. They can be a bit defensive about religious matters but that's also because discussing religion in public is taboo - an offshoot of official paranoia fueled by memories of race riots in the past. And don't be surprised to see much of the city in limbo during the mandatory morning, afternoon and evening prayers. I've seen drivers stop in the side of the road to pray. The man driving me had to leave me in the car so he could catch afternoon prayers in a nearby mosque. You have to admire this kind of commitment, but this very commitment, especially when inflamed and incited, could also lead to the kind of intolerance our world now has to face.

Nearby Excursions: Putrajaya.

One of the most magnificent mosques in KL is the salmon-pink Putra Masjid in Putrajaya. It has to be since it sits right beside the equally grand palace of the Malaysian Prime Minsiter. Technically Putrajaya is not part of KL but the two are inseparable because of their mutual interdependence.

Putrajaya was built from scratch to become the nation's political center of gravity. The Prime Minister's office and the other state ministries are all located along a narrow but well planned strip of land alongside the Putrajaya river. Predictably, it was Dr. Mohamad Mahathir's idea to build a shining new city for a shining new Malaysia. The master plan included an IT industry corridor called Cyberjaya. The dot com bust of the late nineties put an embarrassing end to Mahathir's vision and if not for the government buildings here, Putrajaya would seem like a ghost town; a half-finished real estate development gone bankrupt.

But if only for the mosque, the grand government buildings with their Islamic architectural details and the pretty view of the immaculately clean river that runs through it, Putrajaya is worth the hour's drive from downtown KL. And yes, the multi-billion expressways leading to it are just unbelievable.


Genting Highlands.

Honest guidebooks warn Genting Highlands is a tourist trap. But locals don't see it that way. Surely, the entire Genting development atop one of Malaysia's taller mountainsides is one sprawling artificial wonderland. But basing it on the crowds that make the long trip from KL, the place is popular. And if you leave some of that snobbish traveler mindset behind, you too could find it fun.

For one, its cool up in the highlands. Cool as in cold, I mean, with temperatures hitting 16 degrees in the late afternoon. It hot KL, that's a welcome relief.

The cable car ride to the top of the ridge is said to be the longest one in Asia and it takes you through old rain forest cover. In case you get it confused, Genting Highlands is not the same as Cameron Highlands - the picturesque former British hill station in the north. Genting is named after the gaming (that is, gambling) and entertainment conglomerate, so not surprisingly, it is one big gaming and entertainment complex - yes, with all the kitschy things associated with it: circus rides, video arcades, KTV booths, Hollywood-themed restaurants - you get what I mean. You either love it or hate it. But taking a deeper look at the amusement offered here, you begin to understand that despite the periodic anti-American rhetoric from the politicians, Malaysians, like all others, do embrace Western culture - even the most artificial and gaudy versions of it.

GEORGETOWN, Penang.

Unless you're in town for business or unless you're a correspondent reporting on Malaysia's increasingly interesting political scene, a few days in Kuala Lumpur should do the trick of covering all the interesting sites and experiences. Which is why a trip far from the capital is mandatory if you have the time. Beach-types can head to Langkawi and nature trippers have the Bornean forests as an option. For culture vultures and history buffs there's Georgetown in Penang.

Penang Island is a short flight from KL but Malaysia's astoundingly good expressways get you there in 4 to 5 hours running at 120kmh. There's also a scenic train ride from KL if you're interested in cutting through the country's back roads and kampungs.

Penang, and Georgetown in particular, have the graceful old-world charm that KL lacks. Not that KL doesn't have the history or the monuments to prove it. Just that KL doesn't seem very interested in its past unlike the way Georgetown does.

Colonial Georgetown.

Named after King George IV, Georgetown is the earliest British settlement along the Straits of Malacca and an important trading and military post at that. Entire portions of the city are lined with colonial administration buildings, churches and Christian schools. Despite the heat, walking is the only way to take in the cityscape. The next best way is on the trishaws that come with canopies to protect you from the sun. Either way, the view from the ground is cinematic. Its like walking into a Merchant-Ivory set. UNESCO has finally listed Georgetown as a World Heritage Site and why it took this long is a mystery.

The Town and City Hall by the shoreline is one of the best examples of the colonial architecture found along the Straits - including Singapore. Another part of town called "Millionaire's Row" is lined with colonial mansions purchased by Malaysia's richest families.

The grand dame of the Georgetown hotels, the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, is on this same strip and has managed to keep its majesty intact despite recent ownership problems. An interesting collection of old photographs of celebrities, politicians, diplomats and writers can be found in the lobby. Proof of its proud heritage. The hotel was established by the Armenian Sarkies brothers, the same family that established The Raffles Hotel in Singapore.

Ethnic Neighborhoods.

As a trading hub of the East India Company in the 18th century, Georgetown attracted its share of immigrants, most notably, the Chinese. Soon clans of Chinese immigrants working as dock hands and petty traders settled in the town and occupied the seafront where land was easily available. Today the original houses built on stilts still occupy the port island's jetties. As of late, these rather rundown, but entirely colorful colonies, have been attracting the attention of travelers looking beyond the whitewashed walls of the colonial buildings. With all the British gone, their emptied out buildings have been converted into museums, local schools, shops and administrative offices. As for the jetty colonies, their alleyways still breathe with the life of the early Chinese settlers - later called the Straits Chinese. Walking through these neighborhoods you can still see life being played out as it used to in a previous century.

As the Chinese ascended the food chain in Penang, so did their choice of living quarters. The more prosperous families became traders and moved inland to the center of Georgetown. Their shop houses and family temples are perhaps the best examples of Straits Chinese or Peranakan architecture in Southeast Asia. Better even is the fact that these buildings continue to function as shops, restaurants and warehouses - though updated to appeal to a modern clientele.

Take your time to explore the narrow lanes and try the local Chinese cuisine. The restored and antique Chinese furniture for sale is of a very high quality and so is the traditional pottery and ceramics.

It seems that wherever the British settled in Malaya the Chinese soon followed. And so did immigrants from India. The British often took their subjects from the Indian subcontinent to do the dirty work for them. But although the British uprooted themselves from Southeast Asia after the Second World War, the Indians remained - as did their mark on the city. The Little India in Georgetown is not very big - just a small network of streets - but its easily one of the most colorful and surely the noisiest. Try the famous curries here or do a bit of shopping for Indian fabric.

Seaside Penang.

Apart from its architectural attractions, Penang is also a popular seaside resort. The beaches are clean and fine to the touch (though not as white as I wished) and lined with luxury resorts. There are two Shangri-la properties on a single beach, including the very first hotel established by the Malaysian-born Kuok family.

In all, Georgetown and Penang are grossly underrated destinations. That's good for those of us who like to avoid the crowds and overpriced and over-touristed places.