Kuala Lumpur
& Georgetown, Malaysia:
Top Picks

Malaysia, Truly Asia. That's how the country's tourism industry chooses to promote itself. Of course Malaysia is not truly Asia. And not because it's not Asian - it's as Asian as any other, well, Asian country. Just that no country can claim to be such. Asia, after all, is merely a convenient geopolitical construct - in fact, a rather inaccurate one (though not as passe as, say, using the term Orient).

Countries within Asia are just as diverse, even more perhaps, in terms of ethnicity, culture, religion and skin color than other continents. So Malaysia may be part of the Asian continent, but truly Asian? Simply truly Malay would have been more convincing - though nevertheless controversial. But if Malaysia is any different from its Malay neighbors such as Indonesia, Brunei and the Philippines, it must be in its very Malay-ness. Indeed, Malaysia is the only country that has and continues to obsessively reimagine Malay culture and employ it as a tool for nation-building and political organization. The upside is some pretty spectacular architecture and urban planning. The downside: a suffocatingly rigid social and political system that is only starting to unravel.

I over analyze. But its hard not to. As a country of federated States carved out by the British colonizers, you get the impression (a historically correct one) that Malaysia is, to borrow Anderson's observation, an imagined community. One that is still struggling to define itself amid the identity politics imposed by the government to counter an economically and intellectually influential minority of immigrants of Chinese and Indian ancestry.

Fortunately for the traveler, it's this ethnic mix that provides the country with cosmopolitan edge. If it weren't for cities like Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown in Penang, Malaysia would offer the visitor little more than pretty landscapes dotted by traditional villages (kampungs) and some well-conserved national parks. Which are wonderful. But incomplete.



KUALA LUMPUR

The Malaysian capital is what you would expect from any Asian capital city. Modern buildings, highways, elevated train systems - you get the picture. And, its an impressive one. Kuala Lumpur or KL is green. It should be since Malaysia's tropical location gives it some of the best rainforest cover int he world.

KL is clean. Not in the way Singapore is, but close enough owing to strict government laws locals would rather not break.

Above all, KL is well preserved. The Japanese did invade what was then called British Malaya but never had to raze it to the ground as the British surrendered in haste just as they did in Singapore. The British loss of face is today's traveler's gain. Colonial buildings remain close to what they looked like when the British were establishing this port town by the river (Kuala Lumpur Stands for mouth of the muddy river).

Unlike Singapore, colonial buildings are scattered around the metropolis so its an effort to visit them by foot. Still, its worth the effort. The British always left behind majestic monuments of their power. Don't miss independence square and the KL train station.

Modern KL.

The remnants of colonial Malaya are literally in the shadow of modern buildings that seem to purposely dwarf British influence. Malaysia's nation-building mission after independence in 1957 was so intense, public money was lavished on modern monuments that could best inspire Malaysian identity.

The KL tower is no longer the tallest, but at night the communications tower glitters like sapphires and diamonds against the backdrop of black sky. The tower has a revolving restaurant on the top floor but its rather tacky - though the spectacular 360 degrees view of the city makes up for it.

The tallest tower is currently the Petronas Twin Towers. It's quite an architectural marvel if you're into engineering and it does provide a sense of magic to KL's skyline. Coming into the city at night from the airport, the Twin Towers are awe-inspiring. The towers gleam, no, they glitter at night. Even in the morning, the all glass, steel and metal structure radiates in the daylight.

Obviously, the Petronas Towers serve more than a commercial purpose (there remain many vacant floors, I'm told). They are symbols of the political elite's optimism and, yes, vanity. Its the edifice complex at play once again. The Towers were built for symbolic reasons. Malaysia was on the rise as a tiger economy and the ruling political coalition under Dr. Mahathir needed an icon to announce the country's arrival on the world stage. It worked. Briefly, it was the world's tallest structure. It was a lightning rod for world opinion about Malaysia's spectacular transformation into a manufacturing and information technology global player.

Malaysia's economy has since plateaued but the Towers remain as iconic as ever. There is also another symbolism at play - if you look closely enough. The Towers use Moorish and Islamic motifs in design and shape. Malaysia's story, it should be known, was going to be more than just an economic miracle. Her success story was also meant to show the Western world that an Islamic state can be modern and progressive as well. Indeed, before Dubai, there was already Malaysia.

Shopping.

The less geo-politically aware need not notice. Or bother. De-contextualized, the Towers still make for very captivating photographs and the massive shopping mall within is a luxury shoppers dream. Conservative Muslim Malaysians may not be the primary target market for such scandalously excessive merchandise - its the city's large expat community and even larger ethnic Chinese population that crowd the malls on weekends. Don't miss the only stand alone Jimmy Choo shoe boutique in Southeast Asia. Choo is Malaysian born and even if the city's Muslim women would never wear his iconic stilettos, the shop at KLCC is always full.

Shopping, make that window shopping, is such a wonderful activity in KL. The shiny new malls are fantastic and the airconditioning makes a trip to these places a perfect way to escape the constantly hot and humid climate. Spoiled shoppers looking for a Hong Kong and Singapore style experience won't be disappointed by the new Pavillion mall along Bukit Bentang. From its own Illy cafe and Paul Frank store to the usual luxury goods purveyors like Zegna, Chanel and Jaguar, the is one classy place to cool your heels.


Hardcore tourists won't have a hard time finding affordable local crafts to take home. But if you really want to go for the best, there are two things you mustn't leave town without: pewter and batik.

Malaysia is the world's leading pewter manufacturer. Its an attractive alloy of tin, copper and antimony. The country is a global tin trader and when properly processed, polished and designed - pewter can match sterling silver in beauty and purpose. A visit to the Royal Selangor museum and workshop gives you more of the metal's history in Malaysia and in the adjacent factory you can see for yourself how pewter products are finished on site.

The other truly beautiful product that comes out of Malaysia is batik. The Indonesians are much more advanced in batik making and design but a young Chinese-Malaysian designer is making waves with her own take on this ancient art. uses very traditional methods to create very modern and stylish designs. Her batik pop art designs of Malaysian celebrities and local flora are collectibles.



Street Food.

Great tasting street food more than makes up for the rather bland offerings found in city hotels and restaurants. There's a mind boggling array of Chinese, Indian, Arab and Malay dishes to choose from in the city's many outdoor food courts. Dirt cheap too. The only rule here is to be adventurous. Chinese food is the easiest on the palate and its the best way to prepare seafood. Also for pork dishes since pig meat is taboo among Muslims (and the aroma coming from it still a source of tension among neighbors). Chinese food is often a Straits Chinese variety that mixes local ingredients and cooking styles. The fried flat noodle dish char kay tiew is to die for.

For the real Malay deal, you must try the satay. The barbecued beef, chicken and lamb skewers on their own are fine but become irresistible with the carefully prepared peanut-based satay sauce. Then complete the meal with a sweet and hot cup of Tea or Kopi prepared the traditional and rather theatrical way. The coffee or tea is "pulled" - a technique where the liquid is poured back and forth between two cups to allow air to provide some body. Let's just say it works.


Malay-Islamic Culture.

Islam is everywhere and everyone makes sure you notice it. For one, there are mosques in every neighborhood. Not just mosques - gigantic mosques the size of a stadium. Unlike the churches and chapels of Europe, Malaysian mosques are carefully guarded by the local faithful and outsiders are made to feel just that. This makes curious non-Muslims (i.e. tourists) attempting to see the mosque's interiors uncomfortable. In fact, only Muslims are allowed beyond a certain point so the farthest you'll reach is the inner courtyard - and only if you're properly dressed.

The Malaysian Muslims I met may were all serious and devout, but far from being extreme or fundamentalist in their faith. They can be a bit defensive about religious matters but that's also because discussing religion in public is taboo - an offshoot of official paranoia fueled by memories of race riots in the past. And don't be surprised to see much of the city in limbo during the mandatory morning, afternoon and evening prayers. I've seen drivers stop in the side of the road to pray. The man driving me had to leave me in the car so he could catch afternoon prayers in a nearby mosque. You have to admire this kind of commitment, but this very commitment, especially when inflamed and incited, could also lead to the kind of intolerance our world now has to face.

Nearby Excursions: Putrajaya.

One of the most magnificent mosques in KL is the salmon-pink Putra Masjid in Putrajaya. It has to be since it sits right beside the equally grand palace of the Malaysian Prime Minsiter. Technically Putrajaya is not part of KL but the two are inseparable because of their mutual interdependence.

Putrajaya was built from scratch to become the nation's political center of gravity. The Prime Minister's office and the other state ministries are all located along a narrow but well planned strip of land alongside the Putrajaya river. Predictably, it was Dr. Mohamad Mahathir's idea to build a shining new city for a shining new Malaysia. The master plan included an IT industry corridor called Cyberjaya. The dot com bust of the late nineties put an embarrassing end to Mahathir's vision and if not for the government buildings here, Putrajaya would seem like a ghost town; a half-finished real estate development gone bankrupt.

But if only for the mosque, the grand government buildings with their Islamic architectural details and the pretty view of the immaculately clean river that runs through it, Putrajaya is worth the hour's drive from downtown KL. And yes, the multi-billion expressways leading to it are just unbelievable.


Genting Highlands.

Honest guidebooks warn Genting Highlands is a tourist trap. But locals don't see it that way. Surely, the entire Genting development atop one of Malaysia's taller mountainsides is one sprawling artificial wonderland. But basing it on the crowds that make the long trip from KL, the place is popular. And if you leave some of that snobbish traveler mindset behind, you too could find it fun.

For one, its cool up in the highlands. Cool as in cold, I mean, with temperatures hitting 16 degrees in the late afternoon. It hot KL, that's a welcome relief.

The cable car ride to the top of the ridge is said to be the longest one in Asia and it takes you through old rain forest cover. In case you get it confused, Genting Highlands is not the same as Cameron Highlands - the picturesque former British hill station in the north. Genting is named after the gaming (that is, gambling) and entertainment conglomerate, so not surprisingly, it is one big gaming and entertainment complex - yes, with all the kitschy things associated with it: circus rides, video arcades, KTV booths, Hollywood-themed restaurants - you get what I mean. You either love it or hate it. But taking a deeper look at the amusement offered here, you begin to understand that despite the periodic anti-American rhetoric from the politicians, Malaysians, like all others, do embrace Western culture - even the most artificial and gaudy versions of it.

GEORGETOWN, Penang.

Unless you're in town for business or unless you're a correspondent reporting on Malaysia's increasingly interesting political scene, a few days in Kuala Lumpur should do the trick of covering all the interesting sites and experiences. Which is why a trip far from the capital is mandatory if you have the time. Beach-types can head to Langkawi and nature trippers have the Bornean forests as an option. For culture vultures and history buffs there's Georgetown in Penang.

Penang Island is a short flight from KL but Malaysia's astoundingly good expressways get you there in 4 to 5 hours running at 120kmh. There's also a scenic train ride from KL if you're interested in cutting through the country's back roads and kampungs.

Penang, and Georgetown in particular, have the graceful old-world charm that KL lacks. Not that KL doesn't have the history or the monuments to prove it. Just that KL doesn't seem very interested in its past unlike the way Georgetown does.

Colonial Georgetown.

Named after King George IV, Georgetown is the earliest British settlement along the Straits of Malacca and an important trading and military post at that. Entire portions of the city are lined with colonial administration buildings, churches and Christian schools. Despite the heat, walking is the only way to take in the cityscape. The next best way is on the trishaws that come with canopies to protect you from the sun. Either way, the view from the ground is cinematic. Its like walking into a Merchant-Ivory set. UNESCO has finally listed Georgetown as a World Heritage Site and why it took this long is a mystery.

The Town and City Hall by the shoreline is one of the best examples of the colonial architecture found along the Straits - including Singapore. Another part of town called "Millionaire's Row" is lined with colonial mansions purchased by Malaysia's richest families.

The grand dame of the Georgetown hotels, the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, is on this same strip and has managed to keep its majesty intact despite recent ownership problems. An interesting collection of old photographs of celebrities, politicians, diplomats and writers can be found in the lobby. Proof of its proud heritage. The hotel was established by the Armenian Sarkies brothers, the same family that established The Raffles Hotel in Singapore.

Ethnic Neighborhoods.

As a trading hub of the East India Company in the 18th century, Georgetown attracted its share of immigrants, most notably, the Chinese. Soon clans of Chinese immigrants working as dock hands and petty traders settled in the town and occupied the seafront where land was easily available. Today the original houses built on stilts still occupy the port island's jetties. As of late, these rather rundown, but entirely colorful colonies, have been attracting the attention of travelers looking beyond the whitewashed walls of the colonial buildings. With all the British gone, their emptied out buildings have been converted into museums, local schools, shops and administrative offices. As for the jetty colonies, their alleyways still breathe with the life of the early Chinese settlers - later called the Straits Chinese. Walking through these neighborhoods you can still see life being played out as it used to in a previous century.

As the Chinese ascended the food chain in Penang, so did their choice of living quarters. The more prosperous families became traders and moved inland to the center of Georgetown. Their shop houses and family temples are perhaps the best examples of Straits Chinese or Peranakan architecture in Southeast Asia. Better even is the fact that these buildings continue to function as shops, restaurants and warehouses - though updated to appeal to a modern clientele.

Take your time to explore the narrow lanes and try the local Chinese cuisine. The restored and antique Chinese furniture for sale is of a very high quality and so is the traditional pottery and ceramics.

It seems that wherever the British settled in Malaya the Chinese soon followed. And so did immigrants from India. The British often took their subjects from the Indian subcontinent to do the dirty work for them. But although the British uprooted themselves from Southeast Asia after the Second World War, the Indians remained - as did their mark on the city. The Little India in Georgetown is not very big - just a small network of streets - but its easily one of the most colorful and surely the noisiest. Try the famous curries here or do a bit of shopping for Indian fabric.

Seaside Penang.

Apart from its architectural attractions, Penang is also a popular seaside resort. The beaches are clean and fine to the touch (though not as white as I wished) and lined with luxury resorts. There are two Shangri-la properties on a single beach, including the very first hotel established by the Malaysian-born Kuok family.

In all, Georgetown and Penang are grossly underrated destinations. That's good for those of us who like to avoid the crowds and overpriced and over-touristed places.

Hong Kong Top Picks

Admit it. Most of us visit Hong Kong for only two reasons: shopping and/or work. Usually its the shopping. Which is pretty much the best you'll experience in Asia. On my last trip to Hong Kong, I tried to put shopping in the background to see if the city has anything else worthwhile to offer the traveler. Well, here goes my list of top reasons to visit Hong Kong - which, no matter how hard I tried, still includes a good dose of shopping.

Architec(tour).

It's a pity that despite having the most breathtaking skyline - many visitors choose to ignore the cityscape. For the absolute best view of Hong Kong's skyscrapers - head to Statue Square in Central. Stand right across the square facing Victoria Harbor for a 360 degree view of the city's most beautiful modern structures.

Start with I.M. Pei's glass and steel icon - the Bank of China building. If there's any building that best symbolizes Hong Kong - this is it.

Close by to the right is another design icon - the Hong Kong Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC) building. Designed by Sir Norman Foster (who also built the new HK airport), the tower is a bit of "love it or hate it". Up close you begin to appreciate the kind of detail this building is noted for. Industrial chic!

In the same viewing direction are some other fine, though less iconic, structures. It's fun to point them out one by one. Remember that these buildings stand on some of the most expensive real estate in the world.

Turn 90 degrees north to see the original modern icon of the city - the Jardine building. The unusual use of circular windows all throughout the building may strike some as a bit tacky, but when viewed alongside the other glass structures in Central, the Jardine headquarters provides the perfect visual counterpoint.

From this vantage point its impossible to miss the imposing IFC 2 mega building. For now, it's the tallest building in the city and it's location right on the harbor literally raises the bar as far as Hong Kong's skyline is concerned. Frankly, it's a bit out of place and unnecessarily tall when compared with the island's otherwise modestly-sized but elegantly proportional skyline. (Surely, as taller buildings are constructed along the harbor, the idea of proportionality will change).

Hong Kong's buildings are even more spectacular when viewed from a distance. There are two places worth making the trip just to see the skyline in its full panoramic glory. One, and still the easiest way, is along the Promenade on the Kowloon side. Every night at 8PM the buildings put on a light display called the Symphony of Lights where the outlines of the structures burst into color. Any other time of day is breathtaking as well.

The one other place to see Hong Kong's fabled skyline is from Victoria Peak. Sure, this sounds a bit touristy, but there's enough space at the peak to find your private corner without the swarm of picture-takers getting in the way. In fact, lose yourself in one of the many leafy lanes around the peak and have a picnic with the view of the harbor and skyline beneath you.

Much of traditional Hong Kong has been leveled to make way for many of the buildings you see. That's the downside. However, bits and pieces of the old port town can still be seen in various parts of the city. Start your tour at Man Mo Temple along Hollywood Road. There are bigger, better and older temples on the mainland, but Man Mo is a good place to peak into a side of Hong Kong hardly on display: its spirituality. Hong Kong Chinese are perhaps the most secular and liberal of them all but a strong attachment to traditional beliefs and superstitions can be seen beneath the surface of everyday life. Fortune telling is huge in the city and so is the quasi-science of geomancy or Feng Shui.

Antiques and Curios.

The streets around the temple are where many good antique stores can be found with the best ones along Hollywood Road. When the communist mainland was still impenetrable, Hong Kong was where one went to purchase traditional Chinese artifacts and antiques. But even with antique stores opening up in Shanghai and Beijing, Hong Kong is still the best option because purchases are tax free and the establishments enjoy a much better reputation.

Antiques aren't the only things worth buying in this area, though. Fashionable these days are both original and reproductions of China's Maoist heritage: posters, busts, statuettes and pamphlets common during the Cultural Revolution. I know these are currently in vogue among young hipsters in Europe and the U.S. where out of their historical context these Maoist icons are viewed as cool pop art from China. How local Hong Kong residents look at these is another matter altogether. After all, Hong Kong was where refugees fleeing the excesses of the Cultural Revolution of Chairman Mao's Red Guards escaped to. No doubt memories of the mass persecution remain fresh in the minds of Hong Kong's elders while a lingering fear of a crackdown by the Communist Party are at the top of most young democratic activists' minds. Which is why I find the Maoist icons so disturbing. Just think: would young Russians find busts of Stalin and statuettes of Lenin in their living rooms cool? I doubt it.

Contemporary Chinese Art.
With so much media attention focused on China these days it isn't hard to understand why contemporary Chinese Art is all the rage. Hong Kong is currently the best place to snap up these art pieces - especially since purchases of art - even multi-million dollar pieces - are duty free.

Once again, Hollywood Road is a good place to start and so is Wyndham Rd. right behind Lang Kwai Fong. Along D'Aguilar is Opera Gallery which stocks European and Asian contemporary art works. The French and Chinese staff are extra friendly and make browsing fun and informative. You'll find that the works of modern legends Salvador Dali and Andy Warhol here are priced less than up and coming Chinese artists. Supply and demand, I'm told. These recurring depictions of overweight babies, hyper-expressive faces and, yes, more images of Chairman Mao are being snapped up by collectors the world over.

Hong Kong's Tailors.

If there's one thing that remains free of hype in Hong Kong - it must be their tailors. Fast, skilled and relatively affordable, the city's tailors are legendary. But it wasn't always like this. The tradition was actually brought to the city by Shanghai tailors fleeing the communist revolution. Today, their children and grandchildren operate tailoring shops that can sew up a bespoke suit in as little as 24 to 48 hours.

Aside from the skill of the tailors, Hong Kong's free port gives these tailors all the same choices in cloth and fabrics that a tailor in the UK or Italy enjoys. At a much cheaper price, of course.

For what is reputed to be the best shirt-maker in the city - head to Ascot Chang. Ascot Chang was one such tailor from Shanghai that moved his business to Hong Kong and has since built his brand into an internationally recognized name. I went to see for myself what the buzz was all about and decided to visit the Ascot Chang branch at the Prince building in Central. Ascot Chang has since passed away but his family now runs the business. His nephew, Lincoln Chang, was around to tell me what goes into sewing the perfect shirt: a lot of skill, but also the quality of fabric. The store stocks thousands of swatches of shirt cloth - mostly varieties of cotton from Italy and Switzerland that range from 650 HK Dollars to 4,000 HK Dollars a shirt.

Shanghai Tang.

Hong Kong used to be one of the few cities in Asia where you could find a good selection of global fashion brands - especially luxe brands. But with tiger economies roaring all over the region, cities like Singapore, Bangkok and Taipei are all getting their share of global luxury brands. Thanks to Shanghai Tang, a home-grown brand built by David Tang, Hong Kong can boast having the first Asian and non-Japanese luxury fashion house.

The flagship store in Pedder Street in Central is still worth a visit even after Shanghai Tang was bought out by a European luxury goods conglomerate. In fact, the additional financial muscle has given Shanghai Tang a wider global audience and global fashion style.

The store is a joy to navigate. Not only for the trademark colorful merchandise, but also for the architectural details. Aside from the tasteful use of chinoiserie all over, details like antique light fixtures, birdcages with real birds, and rich wood panels and floorboards give the store an elegance we can only imagine old Shanghai mansions to have once possessed.

You could skip the clothes if Chinese-inspired detailing is not your thing and head straight for the home section - if only for the delicate and colorful porcelain and china.


SoHo and NoHo.

As you can see, there's no way shopping can be ignored. So let's just get on with it with even more shopping experiences in Hong Kong.

Tired of big name luxury brands? In Hong Kong there's no escaping them! So why not small name luxury brands, instead? For the best selection of shops in this category there's the area north and south of Hollywood Road just around the mid-levels escalators.

Every big city you can think of will advertise one part of itself as "just like Soho." Alluding to the artist/bohemian districts of Soho in Manhattan or London, of course. In Hong Kong, that area is even called SoHo - which is short for South of Hollywood Road. In fact, SoHo in Hong Kong is not like being in Hong Kong at all. The vibe here is entirely, well, West Village. And so is the crowd. Which isn't such a bad thing. Unless you're looking for authentic Chinese cuisine or crafts.

The shops here are a merry mix of lifestyle stores and those that sell one-off items. MORN Creations along Staunton Rd. is worth a visit if you're into retro and quirky modern accessories for the home. Their original pandarama bags are hot collectibles that are copied and sold all over Asia's flea markets.

Also on Staunton is the absolutely adorable Chocolate Rain where stuffed characters in stories called Sky Latte and Fatina double as fashion accessories. The creations come in different sizes and are meant to be pinned on to clothes, bags, jewelry and even on sneakers. Chocolate Rain is a Hong Kong creation and the designers give the neighborhood the kind of edginess you'd expect from a place called SoHo.

While on Staunton, grab a glass of wine at the Staunton Wine Bar. Hong Kong imports every imaginable wine label on the planet and a great bottle is never too hard to access. The wine bar is right smack beside the mid-levels escalator so people watching comes with the territory.

SoHo's dining scene is also first rate though not in a Michelin guide kind of way. For that, you're better off in one of the many luxury hotels Hong Kong is famous for. You come to SoHo for atmosphere first and food quality a very near second. Which is just fine since dining standards in Hong Kong are very high to begin with. The choice of restaurants is truly global so you can begin your meal in Africa and end it in America with every continent in between.

North of Hollywood or NoHo is an area only starting to be aware of itself as a shopping district with a unique personality. Compared to SoHo, NoHo's borders are still rather undefined but the selection of shops is somewhat similar: designer furniture stores and fashion boutiques carrying brands not often found in the luxury malls and department stores of Hong Kong.

Luxury Hotels.

Hong Kong's luxury hotels are very much a part of the overall Hong Kong experience. Whether its the landmark hotels of the Peninsula and the Mandarin Oriental or the modern properties managed by the Four Seasons or the Intercontinental, a stay in any one of the many ultra-luxury hotels is fast becoming a tourist destination in itself.

With more and more sophisticated travelers choosing to stay in designer hotels these days, boutique hotels are popping up all over the city. We all know about the Philippe Starck designed JIA Hotel, but there are many more boutique properties coming up in areas close to where the stylish crowds congregate. The Hotel LKF at the top of groove central Lang Kwai Fong is the perfect base for the shop-by-day party-by-night set. True to any hotel that calls itself a designer boutique property, the LKF has all the ingredients: a stylish lobby, a first class bar and restaurant, neo-baroque touches and hip details all over. My favorite has got to be the retro inspired Francis! Francis! Italian espresso machines that come in all rooms. With free Illy espresso pods to boot. Classy.