Delhi Top Picks


India is much too large a country to cover in a couple of days - more so a week. But if that's all the time you have, I suggest visiting the Indian capital of New Delhi.

Everyone will tell you that Delhi does not represent India. But what city does anyway? India is so diverse in terms of climate, religion, culture and scenery - no single region can accurately depict it. So forget about experiencing the "real" India because you'll need months to do that. Instead, look forward to what New Delhi has to offer in terms of an introductory course to the colorful world of the Indian subcontinent.

Some top picks:

British India.

Unless you skipped World History in high school, you must know that India was once the jewel of the British Empire in the East. Make that literally since the subcontinent's rich mineral and agricultural resources powered the Empire's industrial revolution and its voracious appetite for raw materials.

To administer the subcontinent, the British built New Delhi - new because there was an original Delhi - the old seat of the Mughal Empire. New Delhi is a classic colonial architectural experiment. It's an anti-thesis to the rest of India's chaotic urban design. Here large avenues are lined with trees and government buildings are built in the likeness of other British colonies. Despite the heavy use of Western Classical architecture, there are traces of Indian motifs that give them a sense of place.

Motor Rickshaws.

Bus tours are aplenty but I prefer taking a motor rickshaw as it's the fastest way around the capital's horrific traffic jams. Local drivers call these three-wheeled taxis "choppers" because like helicopters the view is pretty much 360 degrees - perfect for experiencing Delhi's colorful streetscape. Flag one down with a driver that speaks good English (not too hard in India). I often enjoy the stories these drivers use to describe the city and its many sights. Make sure to take along your guidebook in case your driver's explanations turn suspiciously fabricated.

Lutyens' Delhi.

Begin at the India Gate. Built to commemorate fallen soldiers, the gate is much more popular today as a starting point for any serious walking tour of the capital's administrative center. Head westward along the Rajpath, the tree and fountain-lined avenue, through the National Museum and on to where India's most important and most elegant government buildings are located. The area has been the target of various extremist groups in the past so expect armed guards to glare at you every now and then for taking too long with your camera. Try not to be distracted though and take in the architecture of the Sansad Bhavan, the Indian Parliament building, as well the various ministries around the area. The long lines of parked white vintage cars add a touch of glamor and make you feel you've stepped into an Merchant Ivory movie set.

Most of the older buildings in the area were designed by the English architect Edwin Lutyens. His most significant work was the Rashtrapati Bhavan and its elaborate iron gates. It was built as the Viceroy's residence but today houses the nation's President.

Gandhi's Delhi.

I mean Mahatma not Indira. The world-famous pacifist is a saint in modern India and two shrines in Delhi commemorate his life and death. Gandhi was a central figure in India's struggle for Independence and post-colonial nation-building and following his footsteps in Delhi takes you back into the subcontinent's tumultuous history. History buffs should not skip the Gandhi Smriti - the verdant compound - where Gandhi was assassinated by an extremist while on his way to morning prayers. The actual footprints of the Mahatma are preserved in the garden's pathway and a simple sandstone pillar stands where he fell. The house and surrounding gardens have since been converted into a museum that celebrates Gandhi's now widely practiced philosophy of non-violence. Another shrine in the city where an eternal flame remains lit is where heads of state and VIPs pay their respects to India's "Great Spirit".

Old Delhi.


This is the heart and soul of the city. The opposite of the British planned newer section of the city, Old Delhi is where you'll find colors and aromas of every variety collide to form an overpowering and intoxicating tapestry of scenes and smells. Best to sample this combination in one of the many bazaars around Chandni Chowk.

You can cover the bazaars on foot (which I prefer) or on one of the faster, but more touristy, foot-pedaled rickshaws. Make your way into the narrow lanes and see first-hand a part of Delhi little changed over the decades - perhaps centuries (not considering those flashy cell phones, of course). Delhi's bazaars are the stuff shopping legends are made of and for centuries foreigners have made their way here to purchase gold, spices, precious stones, cashmere and carpets. Many of these precious items have moved to government-supervised and air-conditioned stores, but the experience out here in the middle of what seems like millions of mad shoppers jostling for position is unforgettable (in both a positive and negative way).

Indian Street Food.


In Asia some of the best tasting food can be found along the streets close to markets. India is no exception and all it takes is a bit of courage to try what could be your best meal in town. Those with weak stomachs should try to avoid food that has been sitting for some time and instead go for food cooked right in front of you. Lamb and chicken marinated in spices and yoghurt and grilled tandoori style are always a safe bet and you must try the very tasty, though rather oily, chapati and parathas.

India is also vegetarian heaven and the locals have mastered turning the most tasteless varieties into the most aromatic and delicious rice and vegetable dishes you'll remember.

Mughal Delhi.

Old Delhi was also the seat of the Islamic Mughal Empire popularized in history by the likes of Shah Jahan (of Taj Mahal fame). The Red Fort and its imposing red sandstone Lahore Gate is hard to miss and, indeed, should not be missed if you want to see how India's foremost ruling dynasty lived at the apex of its power. Brave the lines outside because once inside you won't be disappointed - the sprawling grounds still give you a hint of the opulence and yes, decadence, that once spilled through this complex of palaces, mosques and gardens. Marvel at the inlaid marble and intricate lattice work used in most of the structures. This was more than just the seat of power, it was a pleasure palace where the emperor's harem was kept in lavish quarters.

Shah Jahan must have had an edifice complex because aside from the Red Fort and Taj Mahal (more of this later), he also commissioned the largest mosque in Delhi - the Jami Masjid. Islam is a minority religion in predominantly Hindu India, but at least in Delhi, religious tolerance is practiced. Thankfully even non-Muslims can enter the mosque and view the magnificent structure which can accommodate up to 20,000 faithful. Except for Fridays the square is occupied mostly by pigeons and tourists who take advantage of the mosque's high altitude to capture some of the best views of Delhi.


The Taj Mahal.

It would be a sin to visit Delhi without a side-trip to Agra just over 5 hours away by road. Agra is often synonymous with world wonder Taj Mahal and that's unfortunate because there are many more buildings worth seeing. Still, none equal the monument of love built by Shah Jahan (him again) for his favorite wife Mumtaz Mahal. India's drivers are rather aggressive and not everyone will enjoy the long trip that almost always seem like you're headed for an accident. But a bit of calm will help especially when viewing the many wonderful roadside attractions which include elephants and camels that often compete for road space. Every now and then you hit a street demonstration or traffic altercation - a joy to watch the famously argumentative Indians.

Next thing you know you're in Agra and after getting off from a designated parking space it's only a short stroll to the outer gates of the Taj Mahal. You've seen the Taj in postcards and calendars and that's exactly what it looks like in person - the perfect symmetry of its four minarets, dome and lotus pool is for real. The complex is expansive enough for the thousands of pilgrims and tourists to disappear into and it isn't hard to find a quiet spot under the shade of a tree to take in the truly spectacular sight around you.

Up close the Taj Mahal is just as special. The marble inlay technique using precious and semi-precious stones called Pietra Dura gives the facade a jewel-like look and feel. You can spend an entire day looking at the combination of Pietra Dura, carved relief decorative motifs and inlaid calligraphy. No wonder it took 20,000 workers over 22 years to complete the structure. The Taj Mahal is a holy site for Muslim pilgrims so a high degree of respect is required especially inside the tomb chamber where the graves of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal are located.

If not in a hurry, stay a while to visit the other mosques and buildings that surround the Taj Mahal and wait for sunset when the view of the Taj from the Yamuna river is spellbinding.