Stockholm Top Picks


The Swedish capital Stockholm is not exactly on most travelers lists of places to visit before they die. After all, the Scandinavian city is not just far from the European tourist trail, but perennial cold weather and the lack of so-called star attractions make it a travel destination afterthought.

It was never that way for me. I've always promised myself a trip to the Scandinavian cities of Copenhagen and Stockholm for reasons that have less to do with attractions and more to do with my fascination with modern Nordic culture and design. The Scandinavian cities that lie in the periphery of Europe exhibit the best of both worlds so to speak: all the advantages the modern European economy has to offer without the excessive consumerism and social divisions they represent. The result is a pleasant, stress-free and less artificial travel experience that allows you to take in the city sans the marketing hype. Indeed, the cities we love most are those that represent our personalities best. And Stockholm's introverted, yet deeply complex and sophisticated nature has my vote for top European city so far.

Here are some reasons why.

Scandinavian Design

Scandinavian design is not just about the products that are designed by the Swedes, Danes and Finns. It also represents the general appreciation, if not obsession, the Scandinavians have with well-designed objects with good value and practical use - even for products designed elsewhere. A well-designed chair or car cannot be solely nice to look at, it needs to be comfortable, safe and relatively affordable. In the case of Swedish brands, imagine IKEA, Ericcson or Volvo and you get what I mean. They're less about status or about "what this purchase says about me" and more about functionality that's pleasing to the eye and to the touch as well. Simplicity, graceful forms and functionality are the cornerstones of Nordic design.

Stockholm is full of design-oriented shops that represent this sensibility. Practically every block has a store selling home furnishings, clothing, electronics or textile. The ubiquitous Japanese, Italian or Chinese product will find its way here, but more often than not - its strictly Scandinavian.

There are so many home furnishings stores to choose from, including familiar global brands like IKEA and BO CONCEPT, but for an edited down experience I recommend these lesser known shops:

DesignTorget. This store has 5 branches around town and this is where you can find the latest and coolest creations of a new generation of Swedish and Scandinavian designers. Products here are on the quirky side and reflect the younger generation of designers' more playful style. Choose from a wide range of home and personal accessories that include ceramics, jewelry, toys and the odd useless thing for the home.


10 Gruppen. Or Ten Swedish Designers. Set up by ten textile designers this store is perfect for those looking for original, affordable and easily packable gift items to take home. The textile designs are reminsicent of Marimekko (from Finland) but are updated and transformed into everyday household products like bags, pan holders, placemats and the like. The main store is in Stockholm's hip district SoFo so a trip here is well worth the effort as you can browse around the neighborhood's many shops that sell similarly interesting gift items.

Stockhome. It was just a matter of time before someone thought of this name for a home store. Stockhome is a wide-open floor space that sells practical and, yes, affordable home items supermarket-style. Don't expect design icons here, most of the stuff on sale is disposable and for everyday use. Still, true to Swedish style, they're all well-designed and well-made.



Gallerie Nordiska. If you're hunting for established modernist and minimalist design icons though, Gallerie Nordiska is the place to go. Their stock of designer chairs is first rate and though you'll find many Scandinavian icons here - like the egg chair, you'll also find other modernist claasics from the rest of the world. They have an extensive collection of Eames chairs which are popular with Stockholm's design-obsessed class.



B-3. This is not so much a store as a gallery or exhibit space for home finishings, furniture and accessories. Its actually not open to the public - especially nosy tourists, but just ask and the staff will let you in. When inside explore the various rooms where architects and interior designers do their window shopping for clients.

Fans of Bruno Mathsson, one of the founding fathers of Swedish design, will find many of his signature bentwood creations on display.


Svenskt Tenn. Still popular after all these decades, Svenkst Tenn is best known for selling classic furniture and colorful textiles - mostly creations of the architect Josef Frank - another Swedish icon whose fabric designs continue to be the rage with the global design elite.

Add color and Scandinavian character to your pad by taking home rolls of Frank's famously vibrant fabrics which should look great on your sofa or windows. Rather expensive, but this is the real deal.

SOFO

SOFO sounds much hipper than South of Folkungagatan - which is what it stands for. But the contracted name SOFO only started to be used in 2003 when shopkeepers wanted a catchy name to attract Stockholm's trendy set . Like the SOHOs of Manhattan and London, the area is littered with shops that cater to a more bohemian clientele. The area has been gentrified signifacantly since its heyday as a destination for shops peddling an alternative lifestyle. Today SOFO is the epicenter of still alternative, though much more stylish and expensive merchandise, and the creative vibe has ad agencies and design firms moving in the area. Still, the streets have retained a homey, neighborly character which makes for a refreshing breather from the designer-overload you often experience.

The area is easy to explore on foot with the most interesting stores located side by side on the main street. Le Shop is an institution in SOFO and they still carry a good collection of hip streetwear. For a more sophisticated look, Swedish uber-cool brand Filippa K has a branch here. If the boho look doesn't appeal to you, the minimalist and slim-lined cuts of Filippa K may be what you're looking for. For a similar style, walk into one of the many shophouses here that sell a mix of Swedish designer brands and look for that other hipster favorite - J Lindeberg. His main boutiques are across town but you're sure to find a selection of his clean and impeccably made line of clothes here.

Fashionistas are not the only ones who will find a stroll through SOFO satisfying. Other stores specialize in stationary, books, home accessories (Gruppo 10 and DesignTorget are here) and vintage collectibles. As you can imagine, some of Stockholm's hippest (there, that word again!) bars and clubs are also located here.



Gamla Stan

Almost every European city was built around a portion the locals refer to as the Old Town. Gamla Stan is Stockholm's version of this - an island in the center of modern Stockholm where the Royal Palace (Sweden is a constitutional monarchy) is located. The royal family still holds court here (mostly ceremonial) but its open to visitors.

True to Swedish practicality, the Palace is no Versailles and although huge, is sparsely decorated in Franco-Swedish style. (The Swedish Gustavian style was influenced heavily by the elegant French designs of the 18th century though tempered down and re-interpreted in the white, simple curves of what is now known as classic Gustavian furntiure).

As expected from a medieval town center, the street network is a tangle of narrow alleys not very different from the original. The buildings, lamp posts, street signs, even paint color are regulated and made to conform to strict period standards so that the atmosphere is preserved. But don't expect a theme park-like historical town experience, people still live and work here and many of the shops are excellent and the souvenirs on sale are tasteful and of high quality.

Do bring along a guide book (and camera) as the quarter is worth exploring in detail. Stockholm is chilly even in the early Summer so warm your toes in one of the many excellent cafes here. The best cup of hot chocolate can be found in Chokladkoppen on Stortorget - the square right in the center of Gamla Stan. My cup, actually a bowl, was huge and the chocolate rich and perfect in the freezing weather.

Cafe Culture

Swedish cafes have a charm that is different from the coffee houses of Europe and the coffee chains of America. They aren't overly done or styled and neither do they display a cookie-cutter franchise look. Even the blue-collar 7 Eleven has more character than a Starbucks in New York. The 7 Eleven in Gamla Stan has ditched the annoying fluorescent lights and candy-colored motiff and replaced it with a warm, cozy atmosphere sprinkled with designer lamps and furniture.

I've read that the Swedes drink more coffee per capita than any other nation (except the Finns) and you can tell how seriously the coffee culture is based on the number of cafes in the city. Don't expect coffee "to go", the locals take their time to chat or brood over their cup of joe - often enjoyed with something sweet on the side. Swedes call this favorite past time fika. So when in Stockholm do as they do - grab a window seat and stare out into stylish street culture for your own fix of fika.

Pop Culture

Swedish pop culture is almost always associated with ABBA. A bit of an anomaly since much of Sweden and Stockholm's cultural output is on the dark, brooding side. Ingmar Bergman is a better representation of modern Swedish pop culture than lets say, Ace of Base, A-Ha or Bjorn Borg, but that doesn't mean Swedes are a hopelessly melancholy bunch.

In Stockholm, the dreary weather may have something to do with the penchant for heavy and deep art, but just like ABBA, the city has a quirky and fun side to it as well. If there are no pop concerts in town, head to Stockholm's music stores where many albums are still sold in vinyl form. Take home an original ABBA pressing for your vinyl collection (or to sell on e-bay!).

For more classical forms of art, Stockholm hosts an awesome Jazz Festival that ranks up there with the world's best. But most of all, do not dare miss seeing an opera or classical concert. The local performers are world-class and the opera house by the river is an architectural gem in itself. There are also various museums that display the history of Swedish design that are worth checking out before leaving town.

Barcelona Top Picks


Like Paris or Rome, Barcelona is one of the most photographed and romanticized cities in the world. And now with the city's famously innovative design scene making waves, Barcelona is on every trendwatcher's list of cool capitals as well. So what else is there to say about Barcelona that hasn't already been mentioned?

Well, here's my attempt to add to that already long list of things that make Barcelona one of the most stylish cities in the world. The list may seem predictable and a bit cliche', but there's a reason fort this: we all somehow agree on the same reasons we love this city so much.

Capital of Cool.


Barcelona is on every cool hunter's list. Barceloneses take design seriously. From architecture to furniture to fashion - you immediately realize that the city's aesthetic sensibilities (though not always agreeable) are always on the cutting-edge.

New wealth in Spain has created a renaissance in design, but Barcelona - and Catalunya - the fiercely nationalistic region the city belongs to has always flirted with extremes. Until today, rebellious and avant-garde Barcelona continues to lead the charge in Spanish creative arts. A walk through the El Born district close to the city's Gothic Quarter (Barri Gotic) puts you in the red-hot center of Barcelona design.

The Barcelona brand Mango is perhaps better known in the retail world, but streetwear cult label Custo Barcelona is a much more accurate representation of the local fashion sensibility. The first Custo store was set up here and it remains a good example of the city's young, colorful and provocative style.

Taking the cue from Custo, many young designers have set up shop in EL Born and a walk through its network of medieval streets is a great way to discover quirky and cool stores featuring the work of up and coming stars of Spanish design.

If the El Born is where design is incubated, the Passeig de Gracia is where these designs show up as modern classics. The Passeig or (Paseo in Castillan) is Barcelona's version of the Champs Elysee or 5th avenue. Its a wide open boulevard lined with some of the most luxurious shops and hotels in the city. It's also the most convenient way to shop for well-known European high street brands or home-grown Spanish labels like Loewe (now part of the LVMH empire), Camper, Mango, Zara and Adolfo Dominguez.

But you don't have to be a shopaholic to enjoy this grand stretch of road. Many of Barcelona's finest examples of Modernista architecture are located along the Passeig (more of this later). In good weather, the cafes spill-over into the street - perfect for people watching or just staring at the elegant buildings with their elaborate iron doorways and balconies. The lamp posts along the Passeig are equally beautiful and add that extra touch of glamour to the already sophisticated setting.

Design junkies should head towards the block along Passeig de Gracia where Antoni Gaudi's Casa Milla is located. More on Gaudi in a while, but next door to this masterpiece (or monstrosity) is my favorite one-stop-shop for well designed products - Vincon.

Vincon is a Barcelona institution and imagine it as an upscale IKEA. It's a department store stuffed with modern design classics from toys to furniture to just about anything you can use and display in your home.

Collectors of modern but practical design will go crazy here and can easily spend half a day browsing through the many rooms on both floors of this historical building. The designer lamp selection is awesome as is their collection of iconic chairs. Oddly, the one chair you'd expect to be displayed prominently isn't sold here - the Barcelona chair designed by Mies van der Rohe for the Barcelona World Expo. Fans of van der Rohe and his iconic chair will need to travel across the city to the foothills of Montjuic to view his work at the Pavello Mies Van Der Rohe. Which is a must-see for afficionados of modernist architecture.

The Pavello is a faithful recreation of the original structure built by Mies van der Rohe for the Barcelona exposition. His followers made sure to get every detail right - from the marble used to the exact dimensions of the minimalist single-floor building. The original Barcelona chair is on display - a classic in worn-in white leather. You can purchase a miniature version of this design icon including a scale model of the Pavillion, and books and accessories that pay tribute to one of modernism's brightest stars.

The Eixample.

When in Barcelona try booking a hotel within the Eixample. There's a good mix of affordable and luxury sleeps in the area, but best of all is the front row view you get to the city's most glamorous quarter. Take a walk through the Eixample's perfect grid of streets and take in the urban architecture. This is ironwork heaven and it seems no two designs are the same. If you stay clear of the tourists and office workers that crowd around the Sagrada Familia and Passeig de Gracia you'll be rewarded with quaint and quiet pastry shops and antique stores and cafes frequented by Eixample locals.

Antoni Gaudi and the Catalan Modernista's most famous buildings are concentrated in this side of town. The Eixample after all was built by the city elite who wanted an elegant alternative to the congested Gothic quarter of the old town. Here they could roam in the wider avenues in relative safety and show off their wealth through the fabulous apartment buildings they commissioned architects like Gaudi to construct.

Today those buildings stand as monuments to the elite's wealth and vanity. The Quadrat d'Or or golden square is the term used to describe the city blocks that contain the best-loved and most reviled Modernista buildings. Most noteworthy of which is the block on the Passeig de Gracia called the Illa de la Discordia - four Modernista buildings that stand in seeming discord to each other owing to their contradictory styles.

These apartments turned museums are sandwiched in between the Casa Lleo Morera of Domenech i Montaner on the leftmost side and Gaudi's Casa Battlo on the right corner. Gaudi's creation is the most photographed of the four and paying visitors are allowed inside the odd structure which resembles a scaly creature.

Further along the Passeig is another Gaudi landmark - the Casa Milla and its wave-like facade and imposing chimneys. There are no flat or straight walls and windows in the entire building and it must have been ahead of its time in both an engineering and artistic sense. There's a museum on the ground floor where you can take a lift to the rooftop, but people actually still live in the upper floors of this building - just as it was originally meant to be.

There's a lot of literature on Barcelona's Modernista movement and its best to read ahead before you dismiss their works as an eyesore - just as
turn of the century Barceloneses criticized Gaudi and his contemporaries back then.

While you're at it and still in the Eixample, follow the map towards Barcelona's and Gaudi's most famous landmark - the Sagrada Familia. The Church is as controversial as Gaudi himself and there was a time locals couldn't bear to look at its gaudy (derived from Gaudi) facade. Today it symbolizes Catalan rebelliousness and often self-indulgent ways. The building is perpetually under construction so much so that the cranes and scaffolding are almost part of the church itself.

Food Trip.

Barcelona is currently on the radar screen of the food press. Michelin star restaurants are increasing and so are the number of chefs pushing the envelope of Spanish fusion cuisine. But old favorites that have been around for almost a century are still worth checking out. I like Xampanyet, a family-owned bar that has been serving tapas along La Ribera in the Old Town since 1929. They serve a local champagne or Cava - a refreshing sparkling wine called, well, Xampanyet.

The jolly owner, Juan Carlos, proudly recommends the house specialty - anchovies - fresh and soaked in Spanish extra virgin olive oil. You hold it in your fingers and swallow it whole. Yummy and best washed down with the house sparkling wine. Also try their Jamon Iberico and sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil.

Another old favorite is Los Caracoles. Founded in 1929, this restaurant specializes in snails (los caracoles), but I would recommend their calamari frito (fried squid in batter), gambas (prawn in garlic olive oil) and the other house specialty and Spanish favorite - paella. The paella negra imperial (seafood rice cooked in squid ink) is absolutely delicious. A bit on the salty side so do temper it with mayonnaise depending on your taste.

Barcelona on Foot.

All my favorite cities are those that can be covered easily on foot. It doesn't matter if the city is sprawling so long as its possible to get from one point to the next by walking unobstructed. A worthwhile walking tour of Barcelona begins at the Port Veill - where the city opens up to the sea. Feel just like Cristopher Columbus whose first journey back from the New World ended where a monument to his discovery stands today.

The marina is where locals like to spend their weekends hanging around and enjoying the sun and sea breeze. It's also where Las Ramblas, Barcelona's most popular avenue begins.

Las Ramblas is a long and winding pedestrian-only street and even if crowded with tourists, locals love it and a Sunday stroll up or downhill is a tradition still very much alive. Las Ramblas is dotted with street performers, sketch artists and souvenir shops and interesting side attractions like the Erotica Museum, the Boqueria food market and other notable historical and architectural gems. And if you follow its path you'll find yourself stumbling into an entirely different world and time.

The Gothic Quarter

The Barri Gotic or Gothic Quarter is the historic heart and soul of the city. It remains one of the most well preserved medieval quarters in Europe and a walk here is like taking a trip back to the middle ages.

The streets are a maze and its easy to get lost so make the centrally located Barcelona Cathedral your point of reference. The Cathedral is typically Gothic as is its courtyard and surrounding neighborhood of narrow alleys. The cobblestones and medieval walls with gargoyles and bas relief sculpture intact are all original. The Gothic Quarter is well-maintained but it doesn't have that museum-like quality other preserved medieval towns have. People still live and work in this part of town and the restaurants, shops and offices tucked within the ancient walls radiate an energy that is positively modern.

The City by Bus.

Barcelona is a traveler-friendly city and those on a budget - time and money wise will truly appreciate the Bus Turistico service. The double decker bus covers practically every point of cultural, historical and political interest in the city. Hop on and off as you please and take time to explore less frequented sections of the city like Montjuic where a breathtaking panoramic view of Barcelona is the perfect way to end your trip to the Catalan capital.

My Taipei Top Picks

Few people visit Taipei for anything other than business. You can just tell from the number of guidebooks on display in your local bookstore. Strange, since Taiwan is only about the same travel distance from Manila to Hong Kong - or Saigon. (More on these cities sometime later). That's a pity since parts of Taipei for me are like - well, TOKYO lite. A stretch, I know, but the former Japanese colony and industrial hub has kept much more of that heritage than locals here are willing to admit.

Admittedly, I was less than excited to visit the renegade Chinese nation - known more to outsiders for its state-of-the-art factories than its arts and culture scene - but as the cliche goes: I was in for a pleasant surprise.

Despite the nasty weather in September (Taiwan is right smack in the typhoon belt of East Asia - if any such term exists), Taipei exhibited a sophisticated urban gloss that compares with Hong Kong and Singapore. But very different. And in a refreshing way. The Taiwanese nation is a lot less self-conscious. It's as if the city doesn't care much about what the global travel elite have to say about it. WALLPAPER, LUXE GUIDE and LV omit Taipei from their destination guides, but who cares. The city is hip - not hyped. Confident about itself - and therefore comfortable in its own skin, and in its own way of being Chinese.

Perhaps living in the shadow of the Mainland (and the constant threat of invasion by the world's largest army) has galvanized a national identity anchored on self-reliance, maybe even self-absorption. In a time when Asia's newly developed nations are using self-promotion and national arrogance to announce themselves onto the world stage, Taiwan is showing that despite its tremendous wealth and prosperity, there is more that defines the success of a nation than making it to the cover of TIME magazine.

Its hard to imagine calling post-industrial Taipei as a bit off the beaten track. But, it is. Except for the steady arrival of venture capitalists and electronics supply chain executives, you have much of the city to yourself.

Here are some things you shouldn't miss when in Taipei:


Taipei 101
This is Taipei's unimaginatively named 101-floor skyscraper. To date, but not much longer, it remains the tallest building in the world. A bit of an anomaly in the city's otherwise low-rise skyline. After all, Taiwan has seen frequent earthquakes and super-typhoons and a tall structure like this doesn't make sense. (There's talk that the fault-lines were disturbed by the construction of such a massive building).

Let's leave that to the engineers to debate on, but the building is supposed to withstand high winds and temblors. Its a stocky structure - built like the ancient pagodas - and that helps. Skeptics can see a portion of the damping system which stabilizes the building on the 89th floor view deck for proof of its integrity. Its a must see for Architects, structural engineers and big time nerds who watch Nat Geo and Discovery Channel. But getting up there is also fun.

The elevators are also the fastest in the world (Guiness Record Book certified) but the lines getting in are probably one of the slowest. Still, its worth the trip and the view of the Taipei landscape once you're up there. Pray for good weather because there's not much to see in cloudy conditions. If ever, there's a cafe' and ice cream shop on the same floor where you can sit out the gloomy weather.

If climbing up the equivalent of the Empire State or Petronas Tower isn't your thing, Taipei 101 also houses 5 floors of luxury shops and upscale restaurants to keep shopaholics and foodies with substantial credit limits entertained. It's all here - LV, Dior, Prada, Gucci....you get the drift. For the less extravagant, Page One Bookstore has an outlet here with predominantly English titles.

Taipei 101 is located close to many of the classier shopping malls, so if bargain hunting isn't on your itinerary - this is a nice base for browsing around the neighborhood.

Eslite Bookstore

Yes, a bookstore. I didn't realize how into the printed word the Taiwanese were until I came here. The city is full of booksellers and many are open until late. Eslite is a local institution and they operate a network of bookstores in Taipei, but its their six-floor flagship store across Taipei 101 that you shouldn't miss.

Because book-lovers tend to transform bookstore space into their personal hangout, Eslite has extended the concept of the bookshop into a lifestyle store. There are about 1 million volumes of books in all major languages and 6,000 international magazine titles on display. The bottom floors are occupied by stores that sell clothing, furniture and accessories - which are all on the hip side. The store provides all your lounging requirements - a Lavazza cafe' for espressos, curio shops for quirky shoppers, a pretty good music store, a restaurant- and my favorite - an entire section dedicated to Japanese youth-oriented pop culture. (Kids and hipsters here still look to Tokyo for style cues). Its a place big and interesting enough to spend half a day - at least. You can just hang loose and browse away without any nosy sales clerk getting in the way.

Speaking of which - did I mention that the sales staff in this city is generally nice? Not just polite - but nice and helpful. This Eslite branch is open until 12 midnight on weekends so it's a perfect place to hang out if you're alone in the city. For insomniacs, or those in the city for an extended lay-over (and don't want to spend on a hotel), Eslite operates another branch close by that's open 24 hours. No wonder TIME magazine rates it the best bookstore in Asia.

Shopping

There's a shopping experience for any personality and any budget range. In terms of variety and volume, Hong Kong is still hard to beat. But that's if you don't mind the pushing and shoving and the general rudeness all over. Taipei on the other hand has pretty much the same designer shops but without the hostile - or in the case of high-end boutiques - haughty attitude. The Louis Vuitton Maison store is a fine example of the welcome mix of restraint and friendliness you can look forward to. (By the way, the LV Maison, just one of 8 LV stores in Taiwan, is worth a visit if you're into retail architecture. The exteriors are by the Japanese firm of Inui Kumiko and the interiors of the VIP lounge are by the Paris based Taiwanese artist Michael Lin.
Its also the only other LV store that sells LV edited and selected books. Now, if you don't care about retail design or the LV luxury brand phenomenon - skip this place).

In fact, Taipei has its own style so head instead to where trends begin - Ximending.
Ximending is Taipei's version of Tokyo's Shibuya or Harajuku. Its where the city's young and trendy do their shopping for streetwear and accessories. Anyone who's watched Meteor Garden or those other Chinovelas produced in Taiwan will know that the kids here have a style of their own. Sure, a lot is copied from Tokyo street fashion (what isn't these days), but Taipei kids aren't as self-conscious about their fashion sense. So they dress for fun rather than for show and spend on things they like rather than what the media says is "in". And unlike their Japanese counterparts, Taiwanese, especially the women, seem much more comfortable about their sexuality and are inclined to show more skin and strut with more confidence. Trendspotters won't be disappointed.

Of course, there are the night markets of Taipei where the most colorful merchandise and food is sold. I always make it a point to visit the street markets where the locals shop. It's a great way to get the pulse of the city. I firmly believe you are what you buy and here you can see first hand what people are all about. The sprawling Shin Lin Night Market is a good place to start.

Taipei is a crowded city so space is limited. Small homes, mostly in vertical developments mean accumulating things can be difficult. This gives rise to a consumer culture based on easily disposable goods. In Taipei's night markets - almost everything is disposable. Small, cheap and seasonally fashionable buys that are bought for temporary use and satisfaction. Novelty toys, fashion and accessories are what shoppers come here for. Things that make you happy today and then discarded a few months later. Curiously, you won't find many designer knock-offs here. Most items are still made in Taiwan. Which means they're original and not that same watch, lighter, doll or shirt sold in the street markets of Bangkok, Saigon, Hong Kong or Manila. There's still lot of stuff here that's designed and made by young Taiwanese entrepreneurs. Cool.

Dimsum and Dining

Chinese love to eat and the Taiwanese are no exception. When Chang Kai Shek's KMT followers fled Mao's Communists in 1949 they took with them some of the most cherished recipes of Shanghai and Beijing's Imperial Court. The Cultural Revolution of China all but obliterated these so-called "bourgeois" pleasures, but, and luckily for the Taiwanese, the best of China's cuisine survived and thrived in the homes and restaurants of Taipei.

For what is arguably the best dimsum in town - try your luck in the long lines outside Din Tai Fung. The New York Times swears by the dimsum dishes here and I must agree. Don't expect fancy service and chinoiserie interiors. The real star is the dimsum which comes in varieties of pork, shrimp, crab and vegetables. The secret is the soup which is masterfully boiled inside the dimsum wrap. Service is very friendly, fast (almost too fast) and prices are affordable. For added interest, you can watch the kitchen staff prepare the dimsum in the open view kitchen on the ground floor. Do book in advance unless you enjoy standing in line.

A Kaoshiung Side Trip

Thanks to Taiwan's brand new high speed rail network its now possible to visit other parts of the country in about the same time it takes to get from your hotel to the Taipei international airport. I'd recommend a day trip to Kaoshiung, Taiwan's industrial port in the Southern part of the island. It only takes less than two hours by bullet train from the Taipei station. You can choose between business class or economy but there's little difference since the coaches are all clean and spacious anyway.

Kaoshiung is an industrial zone. This is where many of Taiwan's major electronics exports are manufactured and shipped off. As you can imagine - the vibe is blue-collar. But that's also the city's attraction. People are generally more laid back, more hospitable and less concerned with keeping up with the trends of the moment. And as this part of the island is below the Tropic of Cancer - the climate is tropical and more forgiving in the winter months. This explains the sunnier outlook locals have and travelers enjoy.

Spiritual junkies and students of Buddhism will want to visit the Fo Guan Shan monastery in Kaoshiung's outskirts. It's the biggest in the world, but its not the size that matters - although the temple complex is impressive in its scale. What I like though is how the monks here open their arms to visitors and make you feel at home. The tourist hordes can be annoying but the monks and apprentices are able to keep their calm and serenity in the midst of flashbulbs going off. One of the relics of Buddha - a tooth - is kept here so this is definitely a sacred stop in the global Buddhist pilgrimage route.

The monastery is open to overnight retreats but you can choose to remain for life. The diet is strictly vegan although visitors can opt for a gourmet feast that rivals some of the best vegan restaurants anywhere in the world.

Businessmen visiting Kaoshiung will want to spice up their trip by staying at the 538 room Grand Hi Lai Hotel. Style snobs be warned. This huge hotel borders on the tacky with its penchant for faux Italianesque details. But loosen up. Designer boutique hotels may be all the rage today, but at some point their hip factor can get boring and predictable. (Not another Philippe Starck piece!) The Grand Hi Lai is what hotels were like before the days of economies of scale and standardization became industry practice. Grand, opulent and littered with works of fine art and the inevitable kitsch items. Just ask Michael Jackson. The gloved one even took home one of the hotel's prized antiques without permission!

Hello Kitty Fever

Talk about kitsch. One suite is a shrine dedicated to Sanrio's Hello Kitty - which I'm told by the hotel staff is booked solid way in advance. The partnership with Sanrio extends to the hotel's baby pink Hello Kitty limousine - which you can book for a private city tour. There's also an exclusive Hello Kitty retail outlet in the lobby. Hello Kitty, you see, is a magnet for Taiwan's biggest tourist market - the Japanese.

This explains the partnership between Japan's most famous cat and EVA Air of Taiwan. Since introducing the Hello Kitty themed flights to and from Japan, EVA Air have experienced a surge in reservations. For now, those flights are strictly for the Japanese market, but curious travelers can catch a glimpse of the colorful EVA Air Hello Kitty Lounge at the Taipei International Airport.

Traditional Taipei

Arts and Culture vultures will be happy know that Taipei houses the world's largest collection of Chinese antiquities. With defeat imminent, Chang Kai Shek ordered the removal of almost every important piece that could be carried out of Beijing's ancient art collections. Today, the loot is preserved and displayed in Taipei's newly renovated National Palace Museum. Scholars of ancient China, and travelers of Chinese descent won't be disappointed as the museum lives up to the hype. On display are bronzes, paintings, calligraphy, jade and ceramics that trace the history and culture of this fascinating and talented race.

The museum is easy to navigate and the items on display are well-edited so you don't suffer from "culture overload". Ceramics are an interest of mine and the carefully edited selection of blue and whites is just fantastic. Remember, what we call china today came from, well, China.

Rounding out my top picks is the massive Lung Shan temple in the heart of downtown Taipei. There's not much here that makes it an architectural gem or an important spiritual site. But locals and foreigners alike troop here all day long to have their fortunes told.

Here's how it works: you shake a couple of red wooden chips in your hand and drop them to the ground. The position of the chips gives you the answer you're looking for. There are other ways to tell your fortune like matching the numbers on sticks with a scroll of paper locked in a corresponding drawer in a chest nearby. It's all up to you. So what if you aren't superstitious, a visit here provides a revealing view of the fatalistic nature of the Taiwanese.

Indeed, even in hi-tec Taipei, old traditions die hard.