Luxury Hotels in Singapore:
3 Top Picks

Singapore may be criticized for being (or for not being) a lot of things: a city that lacks spontaneity, for example. But the one thing the lion-city can never be accused of is a lack of luxury. Indeed, I've been following this city closely over the past 7 years and one of the most significant changes happening is in the arena of luxury.

Singapore looks poised to position itself as the Monte Carlo of the Far East. And although Hong Kong and Macau are often top of mind when it comes to cities of sophisticated pleasure, Singapore has been not so quietly building up both a physical and cultural infrastructure to establish herself as the premier financial and leisure hub of the region. (The government is encouraging debate and creative thinking).

The city is undergoing a drastic facelift with two huge entertainment developments rising along its coastline. Recently, the streets of downtown Singapore have been transformed into the first night-time capable Formula 1 race track in the world. Although the global economic slowdown is expected to put the brakes on the city's hyper-construction, Singapore is showing the world it has the financial resources and national organization to transform itself into a glitzy tourist hub overnight.

Even as new hotels are being planned to cater to the desired target market of upscale travelers, the city already boasts of having some of the finest and most expensive hotels in the region.

My top picks:

The Raffles Hotel

Nothing beats the old world elegance of the Raffles and the hotel management knows it. After all, unlike much of everything else in Singapore, the Raffles has genuine heritage and the hotel has squeezed every bit of its grand history to trump their flashier competition.

Not many hotels in Asia count the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Ava Gardner, Rudyard Kipling and James Michener as clients. To the point of sounding trite, the hotel continues to harp on the British writer Somerset Maugham's extended stay in the hotel which is thoroughly recreated at every turn. Maugham would never have thought that his description of the Raffles as representing "all the fables of the exotic East" would turn out to be the hotel's advertising slogan for generations to come. Even more so now that Singapore has become the least exotic of all Asian countries.

Cynicism aside, the Raffles deserves its fame and fortune. The hotel has indeed come a long way since the days the Sarkies Brothers leased what was once a bungalow back in 1887. In the ensuing years, British colonials made it their second home and the hotel expanded rapidly. The hotel reached its peak in the decades before the second world war, but like a lot of things in Southeast Asia, the Japanese invasion snuffed out the glamor of these erstwhile colonial icons.

The Raffles only began to reclaim its legendary status after it was named a National Monument in 1987. Extensive construction has restored the Raffles to its original likeness circa 1915. Staying at the hotel isn't like visiting a theme park of recreated antiques and memorabilia. There's a refreshing authenticity without feeling like a stuffy museum or historical relic on exhibit. Brass knobs, hardwood floors and exotic carpets all co-exist seamlessly with wi-fi and automatic coffee machines.

The Raffles is an all suites hotel and my room had a view overlooking the old St. Andrew's Cathedral and Chijmes - a former nunnery close to City Hall. In the 1800s this was close to the shoreline of Singapore and my room must have had a lovely ocean view.

Having been given the grand tour, I'm convinced the best suites face the Palm Court. Maugham himself had a view of the courtyard - hence there's a suite named after him right where he used to stay.

The Presidential Class Sarkies Suite does not disappoint as far as authenticity is concerned. Only genuine antiques and Persian carpets are used and the bedrooms have wonderful antique four poster beds and dressers. The rest is standard for the price range: a dining hall, kitchen and living room. But the best feature is the long and shaded verandah with the most relaxing views of the courtyard - perfect for lazing around on a hot afternoon.

Shutters, palms, teak furniture and vintage fabric all take you back to an imaginary colonial era. That Singapoeans aren't sensitive to British Occupation is a refreshing thing in identity-conflicted Southeast Asia.

Pushing the colonial theme further is afternoon high tea at the Tiffany Room - a favorite among guests eager to relive the past. Down the hall in the Long Bar guests also treat themselves to another Raffles tradition - the Singapore Sling - a sweet juice cocktail spiked with gin and rum.

In fact, staying at the hotel is a rather playful experience if you allow yourself to recreate Somerset Maugham's version of colonial Singapore. If you're not familair with that you can visit the hotel museum or chat up the hotel's historian for tips. After, you can even drive around the city in any one of the hotel's vintage limousines.

Cultural snobs and hipsters may laugh at the prospect of trying something so "touristy" but there's a real joy to looking at this painfully modern city with a different pair of lenses. The Raffles Hotel is no tourist trap, after all, it remains one of the most awarded luxury hotels in the world for a reason.

Raffles Hotel. 1 Beach Road. Singapore.

St. Regis Hotel


The venerable St. Regis of Manhattan fame is now in Singapore and so far the hotel has managed to live up to all expectations. Already the St. Regis Singapore has made it to Travel & Leisure magazine's 'It List 2008' of the world's top 30 new hotels and the Conde Naste Traveler 'Hot List' of new hotels, restaurants and spas.

Okay, a St. Regis making to some exclusive list is no longer news, but because it's the first luxury hotel to open in Singapore in over a decade, the St. Regis is still big news in the lion-city.

The rooms at the St. Regis share the price range of the Raffles suites - which are the highest in Singapore. But the hotel makes no attempt to use the Singaporean colonial story as a thematic guide to its rooms and halls. Instead, the St. Regis uses a hip and modern mix of Asian and Western styles. Antique Chinese furniture stand alongside Frank Gehry sculptures - you get the picture. The style extends to all suites and rooms.

The level of luxury in the suites may seem a bit over-the-top and the single Presidential Suite is unbelievably fabulous. The suite has that Rock Star or Russian Oil Tycoon vibe about it. Genuine fur throws on fine leather sofas, Czech crystal curtains, a baby grand piano, a personal gym, a bath tub for 4 with picture window views of the city, a bedroom and boudoir fit for Marie Antoinette - the St. Regis was clearly aiming for a level of decadence and sexiness famously lacking in Singapore's top hotels.

Back on the ground floor I find myself playing along with the rock star storyline - this time trying out the hotel's custom-built Bentley limousine. I get off and head straight to the Astor Bar where guests come to try the St. Regis New York signature cocktail Bloody Mary. The bar is as chic as the rest of the hotel and an entire wall is dedicated to original prints by Pablo Picasso.

On the same floor is every oenophile's dream: an incredibly stocked wine bar and cellar. The Decanter displays over 1,500 wines from around the world in its transparent glass cellars - including first growth Bordeaux. A bank of wine dispensing machines make wine tasting extra enjoyable.

Food and beverage is an obvious strength at the St. Regis. A Mediterannean lunch at the La Brezza and conversation with Executive Chef Frederic Colin about the hotel's food reveals the St. Regis' attention to detail and uncompromising quality.

This winning philosophy extends to the award-winning Remede Spa where crystal and water interiors set the mood for a few hours of uninterrupted bliss. I admit to not particularly enjoying the typical Asian spa atmosphere with its darkly lit interiors and burning incense aroma. Thankfully, the Remede is patterned after a European spa and makes no attempt to spiritualize the experience. The Remede offers a more decadently selfish ritual: time alone in a steam chamber, a cedarwood sauna and a wet lounge with infrared heated marble to keep warm and cozy. And of course, there's the signature Remede treatments. At the end of the treatment guests are served champagne and artisanal chocolates. Delicious.

St. Regis Singapore. 29 Tanglin Road, Singapore.


The Ritz Carlton Millenia

After all these years as the default luxury business hotel in Singapore there's still so much to rave about the Ritz Carlton Millenia. To prove this, the hotel has a list of awards and accolades that can fit in a phone book. But if there's one thing about the Ritz that keeps me wanting to come back over and again- its the service. The legendary Ritz Carlton service. (Now the stuff of a bestselling business book).

Forget the great location facing Marina Bay, or the remarkable architecture, or even the eye-popping art collection, the real star here is the hotel staff and their impeccable service. As the employee motto goes: "We are Ladies and Gentlemen serving Ladies and Gentlemen." From cleaners to bellhops to managers, the service is consistent, respectful and personal. This, it turns out, is the Ritz Carlton credo: a hotel where the genuine care and comfort of guests is the highest mission.

The secret behind the formula: one of the best customer care training anywhere in the world. I'm always surprised how all the staff I bump into manage to know my name. Apparently, it's a difficult practice the hotel takes pride in.

Staff, even low level employees, are empowered to anticipate and fulfill your needs - even surprise you by waiving certain fees or providing little gifts. Want extra complimentary chocolates in your room? Done. You won't have to wait for the person on the other end of the phone to clear your request with management - or keep you on hold. In fact, enshrined in the hotel employee handbook is a reminder to all staff that they are encouraged to create such unique and personal experiences for guests.

The highest level of service I've experienced in Singapore is matched by equally high levels of quality when it comes to the rooms. Of course the rooms on the club level and the Ritz Carlton suites are the best of the lot, but even the standard rooms won't disappoint.

All rooms come with extra tall and wide picture windows that open up to views of the bay. The Millenia is an unusually narrow building which means no single room is without a view. All beds are elevated higher than usual so that guests enjoy an uninterrupted line of sight facing the windows.

In the bathroom is the biggest surprise of all - a large octagonal window that allows you to bathe in the tub while looking out onto the city. This is no small feat when you realize that even the most exclusive city hotels have no windows in their bathrooms. (Think about it).

The architects of the Ritz Carlton seem to have put the hotel guest first in their design. There's a positive chi palpable throughout the hotel and the heavy reliance on oriental geomancy or feng shui like water features and an abundance of natural light and vegetation is partly responsible for this.

I also like to think that the presence of priceless pieces of contemporary art breathes life and color to the hotel's public spaces. The contemporary art collection is considered the most impressive in all of Southeast Asia - there are 4,200 art pieces and sculptures in all worth approximately 4 to 5 million USD.

One of my favorite treats is taking a tour of the hotel's collection which includes pieces by superstars like Frank Stella, Dale Chihuly, David Hockney and Henry Moore. Representing the East are the iconic Mao figures of Chinese master Zhu Wei and paintings by Indonesian artist Li Lin Lee, among others.

The best thing about the hotel's collection is that these are displayed in the open and not secured behind any barriers like the museums do. The collection has become so popular the hotel now offers audio tours which guests can download on their i-Pods.

Something must also be said about the hotel's Sunday brunch. The Ritz Carlton is credited with starting the trend in champagne brunches in Singapore and I cannot think of any better place to have one. Aside from free-flowing vintage Moet et Chandon champagne, the brunch includes the most extensive cheese and oyster selection this part of the region.

Despite the hotel's enduring popularity among loyal guests, the Ritz Carlton Millenia is starting to show signs of age. Given the competition from newer luxury hotels in the city, the Millenia could use some refurbishing here and there - just to keep things fresh and exciting. But when it comes to service - some things are better left unchanged.

The Ritz Carlton Millenia Singapore. 7 Raffles Avenue. Singapore.


(Photo Credits: Ritz Carlton Millenia Singapore)