Monday, February 11, 2008


Riga, Latvia: Top Picks

Riga has often been lumped together by guide books with the other Baltic cities of Tallinn (Estonia) and Ljubljana (Lithuania). That's unfortunate because the Latvian capital has a personality of its own, and as you'll find out, one of the most beautiful urban architectural scenes in Europe.



My top picks:

Art Nouveau Buildings.
I can only think of one reason to visit the Latvian capital: architecture. But it's a compelling enough reason. The Latvian capital's best kept secret is its vast collection of well-preserved art nouveau buildings. There are too many to count, over 800, in fact, but the most attractive ones are found along Albert Ienes and Elizabeta Ienes streets.

If you were impressed by the art nouveau scene of Paris or Barcelona, you'll be blown away by what you'll see strolling down these city streets. Called Jugendstil, the art nouveau style here is distinctly Latvian as most architects were natives of the city including one of the best known - Mikhail Eisenstein (father of filmmaker Sergei).

A third of the city's buildings in the Central District are in the art nouveau style and are best appreciated at ground level - looking up. Riga, thankfully, is easily covered by foot and your walking tour will reveal interesting architectural landmarks along the way - from the awe-inspiring Russian Orthodox Nativity of Christ Cathedral to soviet-era Brutalist structures. But most rewarding of all are the many leafy side streets of the Central District which are dotted with cafes and well-preserved buildings of eras past.

The Old Town.

Riga's Old Town is a treasure trove of medieval streets and buildings - and like all old quarters of Europe, best navigated on foot. Lose yourself in the Old Town's many winding lanes where many of the city's most important medieval architectural structures are found.

The gothic St. Peter's Church is worth a visit if only to see how christianity survived the soviet occupation. The Russians had other ideas for this church and built an elevator into the spire for the benefit of tourists who get panoramic views of Riga 70 meters above street level.

The soviet occupation of the Baltics after World war II until the fall of the Berlin Wall is remembered as a dark time in history. The Museum of Occupation nearby narrates in moving detail the resistance and liberation of Latvia not only from the Soviet Union, but from Nazi Germany as well.

For a less grim experience, continue your stroll through the Old Town past buildings with quirky roof and wall details or head towards the town's other old churches where you're almost sure to catch a solo cello or violin performance out front.

Classical Concerts.

Fine classical performances can be found in Riga. From the courtyards of its cathedrals to its many town squares - music, and classical music in particular, can be enjoyed for free. Christianity may have lost much of its following in Latvia, but the city's churches are popular destinations for choral performances. I sat through one of these medieval choral works performed inside Riga's massive Dome Cathedral. The choir, the soloists, the orchestra and the cathedral's enormously huge organ all combine to create one of those "things to do before you die" moments. Heavenly.

For world-class opera productions there is the Riga Opera House in the Central District. Latvians take their opera tradition seriously and have made it an indispensable part of their identity. No wonder it's difficult to bag opera tickets - so reserve ahead.


Riga Vintage+Modern.
Despite a history of warfare and occupation, Riga's pre-war character is well-preserved and locals seem to like it that way. The Fall of the Berlin Wall and Latvia's entry into the European Union may have propelled the city from Baltic way station to one of Eastern Europe's most vibrant economies, but no shiny new business districts and fancy transportation system here (for now). Riga still likes its trusty old trams and vintage apartment blocks the way they are. This combination of modern and vintage pops up everywhere from boutique hotels to coffee shops and gives Riga an understated cool factor.

The Albert Hotel I stayed in is one such stop in the city's cool trail. Named after the great physicist Albert Einstein, the hotel uses quotes, equations and pictures of the scientist-philosopher as themes for its interiors - in a fun and stylish way, of course. But you don't have to be a fan of the Nobel laureate to see why this hotel is famous with the fashion set. The rooftop lounge and bar is highly rated for its crowd and its fantastic views of Riga's skyline.


Cafe Culture.

The restoration of democracy in Latvia has unleashed an intellectual fervor repressed by decades of control by Nazi and Soviet thought police. With Big Brother no longer watching closely, natives of Riga have rediscovered a critical voice and sharp wit. Coffee shops and bars are great places to watch locals discuss the news and debate the direction of the country. English isn't widely spoken yet, (popular foreign languages here are Russian and German), but you can just feel the energy without understanding a thing they're saying. Oh, and the coffee ain't bad either.