Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Delhi Top Picks


India is much too large a country to cover in a couple of days - more so a week. But if that's all the time you have, I suggest visiting the Indian capital of New Delhi.

Everyone will tell you that Delhi does not represent India. But what city does anyway? India is so diverse in terms of climate, religion, culture and scenery - no single region can accurately depict it. So forget about experiencing the "real" India because you'll need months to do that. Instead, look forward to what New Delhi has to offer in terms of an introductory course to the colorful world of the Indian subcontinent.

Some top picks:

British India.

Unless you skipped World History in high school, you must know that India was once the jewel of the British Empire in the East. Make that literally since the subcontinent's rich mineral and agricultural resources powered the Empire's industrial revolution and its voracious appetite for raw materials.

To administer the subcontinent, the British built New Delhi - new because there was an original Delhi - the old seat of the Mughal Empire. New Delhi is a classic colonial architectural experiment. It's an anti-thesis to the rest of India's chaotic urban design. Here large avenues are lined with trees and government buildings are built in the likeness of other British colonies. Despite the heavy use of Western Classical architecture, there are traces of Indian motifs that give them a sense of place.

Motor Rickshaws.

Bus tours are aplenty but I prefer taking a motor rickshaw as it's the fastest way around the capital's horrific traffic jams. Local drivers call these three-wheeled taxis "choppers" because like helicopters the view is pretty much 360 degrees - perfect for experiencing Delhi's colorful streetscape. Flag one down with a driver that speaks good English (not too hard in India). I often enjoy the stories these drivers use to describe the city and its many sights. Make sure to take along your guidebook in case your driver's explanations turn suspiciously fabricated.

Lutyens' Delhi.

Begin at the India Gate. Built to commemorate fallen soldiers, the gate is much more popular today as a starting point for any serious walking tour of the capital's administrative center. Head westward along the Rajpath, the tree and fountain-lined avenue, through the National Museum and on to where India's most important and most elegant government buildings are located. The area has been the target of various extremist groups in the past so expect armed guards to glare at you every now and then for taking too long with your camera. Try not to be distracted though and take in the architecture of the Sansad Bhavan, the Indian Parliament building, as well the various ministries around the area. The long lines of parked white vintage cars add a touch of glamor and make you feel you've stepped into an Merchant Ivory movie set.

Most of the older buildings in the area were designed by the English architect Edwin Lutyens. His most significant work was the Rashtrapati Bhavan and its elaborate iron gates. It was built as the Viceroy's residence but today houses the nation's President.

Gandhi's Delhi.

I mean Mahatma not Indira. The world-famous pacifist is a saint in modern India and two shrines in Delhi commemorate his life and death. Gandhi was a central figure in India's struggle for Independence and post-colonial nation-building and following his footsteps in Delhi takes you back into the subcontinent's tumultuous history. History buffs should not skip the Gandhi Smriti - the verdant compound - where Gandhi was assassinated by an extremist while on his way to morning prayers. The actual footprints of the Mahatma are preserved in the garden's pathway and a simple sandstone pillar stands where he fell. The house and surrounding gardens have since been converted into a museum that celebrates Gandhi's now widely practiced philosophy of non-violence. Another shrine in the city where an eternal flame remains lit is where heads of state and VIPs pay their respects to India's "Great Spirit".

Old Delhi.


This is the heart and soul of the city. The opposite of the British planned newer section of the city, Old Delhi is where you'll find colors and aromas of every variety collide to form an overpowering and intoxicating tapestry of scenes and smells. Best to sample this combination in one of the many bazaars around Chandni Chowk.

You can cover the bazaars on foot (which I prefer) or on one of the faster, but more touristy, foot-pedaled rickshaws. Make your way into the narrow lanes and see first-hand a part of Delhi little changed over the decades - perhaps centuries (not considering those flashy cell phones, of course). Delhi's bazaars are the stuff shopping legends are made of and for centuries foreigners have made their way here to purchase gold, spices, precious stones, cashmere and carpets. Many of these precious items have moved to government-supervised and air-conditioned stores, but the experience out here in the middle of what seems like millions of mad shoppers jostling for position is unforgettable (in both a positive and negative way).

Indian Street Food.


In Asia some of the best tasting food can be found along the streets close to markets. India is no exception and all it takes is a bit of courage to try what could be your best meal in town. Those with weak stomachs should try to avoid food that has been sitting for some time and instead go for food cooked right in front of you. Lamb and chicken marinated in spices and yoghurt and grilled tandoori style are always a safe bet and you must try the very tasty, though rather oily, chapati and parathas.

India is also vegetarian heaven and the locals have mastered turning the most tasteless varieties into the most aromatic and delicious rice and vegetable dishes you'll remember.

Mughal Delhi.

Old Delhi was also the seat of the Islamic Mughal Empire popularized in history by the likes of Shah Jahan (of Taj Mahal fame). The Red Fort and its imposing red sandstone Lahore Gate is hard to miss and, indeed, should not be missed if you want to see how India's foremost ruling dynasty lived at the apex of its power. Brave the lines outside because once inside you won't be disappointed - the sprawling grounds still give you a hint of the opulence and yes, decadence, that once spilled through this complex of palaces, mosques and gardens. Marvel at the inlaid marble and intricate lattice work used in most of the structures. This was more than just the seat of power, it was a pleasure palace where the emperor's harem was kept in lavish quarters.

Shah Jahan must have had an edifice complex because aside from the Red Fort and Taj Mahal (more of this later), he also commissioned the largest mosque in Delhi - the Jami Masjid. Islam is a minority religion in predominantly Hindu India, but at least in Delhi, religious tolerance is practiced. Thankfully even non-Muslims can enter the mosque and view the magnificent structure which can accommodate up to 20,000 faithful. Except for Fridays the square is occupied mostly by pigeons and tourists who take advantage of the mosque's high altitude to capture some of the best views of Delhi.


The Taj Mahal.

It would be a sin to visit Delhi without a side-trip to Agra just over 5 hours away by road. Agra is often synonymous with world wonder Taj Mahal and that's unfortunate because there are many more buildings worth seeing. Still, none equal the monument of love built by Shah Jahan (him again) for his favorite wife Mumtaz Mahal. India's drivers are rather aggressive and not everyone will enjoy the long trip that almost always seem like you're headed for an accident. But a bit of calm will help especially when viewing the many wonderful roadside attractions which include elephants and camels that often compete for road space. Every now and then you hit a street demonstration or traffic altercation - a joy to watch the famously argumentative Indians.

Next thing you know you're in Agra and after getting off from a designated parking space it's only a short stroll to the outer gates of the Taj Mahal. You've seen the Taj in postcards and calendars and that's exactly what it looks like in person - the perfect symmetry of its four minarets, dome and lotus pool is for real. The complex is expansive enough for the thousands of pilgrims and tourists to disappear into and it isn't hard to find a quiet spot under the shade of a tree to take in the truly spectacular sight around you.

Up close the Taj Mahal is just as special. The marble inlay technique using precious and semi-precious stones called Pietra Dura gives the facade a jewel-like look and feel. You can spend an entire day looking at the combination of Pietra Dura, carved relief decorative motifs and inlaid calligraphy. No wonder it took 20,000 workers over 22 years to complete the structure. The Taj Mahal is a holy site for Muslim pilgrims so a high degree of respect is required especially inside the tomb chamber where the graves of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal are located.

If not in a hurry, stay a while to visit the other mosques and buildings that surround the Taj Mahal and wait for sunset when the view of the Taj from the Yamuna river is spellbinding.

Monday, November 12, 2007

Five Lower Manhattan Neighborhoods: Top Picks



Top Picks. Yeah right. Impossible. Not New York. More so for lower Manhattan. This part of the city has too many to choose from. In fact, I find it's hard to think of anything or any place that has yet to be written about. New York is the epicenter of the global media and because of this no establishment or experience can escape the attention of the thousands of writers, photographers, television producers and amateur bloggers that scour the metropolis daily for new material. Sometimes all this information can be tiring and the choices overwhelming - yes, enough to spoil your trip to the city. Best to just trust your instincts and forget what the experts say (many are fronts for PR firms) and go ahead and tour the city with the originality only your own set of eyes and ears can provide. So forget what the style gurus think is cool or hip today - they'll be replacing that list in a week anyway.

Here are some timeless (and tireless) classics I suspect will outlive the hit lists of the moment:

The East Village (and Alphabet City).
On my first extended trip to New York in 1991 it wasn't easy exploring the East Village even in daylight. The neighborhood was, well, dodgy - and the streets messy. For sure this was its appeal. It gave the area the kind of street cred New Yorkers are crazy about and love to romanticize (which musicals like RENT capture so well). In reality, a walk through the hood was less ideal with drug dealers coming up to you and all sorts of paranoid characters looking over the shoulders when. It was a bohemian enclave before bohemians became the cultural icons they are today. The shabby chic vibe was a necessity for cash-strapped residents and not the self-conscious come-on it is nowadays. Food was cheap(er) and the merchandise on sale pretty much unique to this part of town.

Fast forward to this decade and so much has changed. Romantics will bewail the neighborhood's gentrification and loss of authenticity. Cheap eats in ramshackle holes in the wall have been replaced by new restaurants built to look, well, ramshackle and shabby- but with dishes priced like mid-Manhattan establishments.

Starving artists (again, like those glamorized in RENT) have since moved up the income ladder or moved out and the neighborhood is exploding with professionally run boutiques, cafes and restaurants that appeal to the BOBOs or bourgeois bohemians that have made the East Village their home.

But there's an upside to some amount of commercialism and gentrification. At least the quality of food is better. And so are the shops. Local entrepreneurs understand the hip appeal of the neighborhood and are using it to launch shops that sell the one of a kind stuff wealthy bohemians like to consume - in an environment that is much safer and gentler.

Spend time strolling past the old apartment buildings and neighborhood shops. The boho cum hippie vibe is still alive and can be sampled in any one of the many organic restaurants or "Free Myannmar" support group headquarters. I guess this partly explains the bias for cuisine from developing Latin, Asian and African countries. Ironically, you won't find many of them living or eating in these places (except in the back kitchen), but quality is high and owners put a lot of work into making your experience an authentic one.


Greenwich (and West) Village.


Although still romanticized in fiction, the West Village has long given up its bohemian pretensions. The area is home to successful celebrities, designers, entrepreneurs and financial executives. Which is not necessarily bad since the neighborhood's new sophistication has rubbed off on the local economy and the selection of bookstores, delis, clothes shops, restaurants and lifestyle stores are of very high quality.

The New York University campus provides the much needed diversity and youthful energy that gentrification often kills. Students also need cheap food and it's good to know that many of the pizza joints of my NYU days are alive and kicking.

The shopping streets around Broadway Avenue in the Village are a great place to sample the edgy street wear popular among the young. Sneaker freaks and vintage clothes afficionados will enjoy the wide range of choices here.

Bleecker street is always a joy to rediscover as are the many cobblestone streets that intersect it. Keep an eye out for shops selling vintage items, vinyls as well as cutting edge fashion from Europe and New York. Celebrity watchers will be thrilled as many famous artists, writers and actors live and shop in the neighborhood.

Soho.


Cliche, I know, but I can't blame the neighborhood for attracting tourists all wanting to experience the kind of stylishness New York is known for. We all know the story by now - you know, that one about how Soho was once where poor artists lived in the area's rundown buildings and transformed them into spaces to create and exhibit their art. Well, that must have been ages ago because as early as the 80's, pretty much all of Soho was converted into ultra chic lofts for the ultra rich of Manhattan. Everything else has been turned into retail palaces for the globe's fashion and lifestyle elite.

Skip the neighborhood if you're on the cheap. You'd just feel horribly out of place or envious. Instead, pretend you're some kind of low key gazillionaire and take in the fantastic merchandise in the Soho flagship stores of PRADA, APC, J Lindeberg and just about every global ultra luxe label you can imagine.

You don't have to be loaded to load up on the Soho experience though. Grab a snack at the spacious and unbelievably well- stocked Dean and Deluca deli superstore or the venerable Balthazars boulangerie nearby. Take a window seat and watch chic shoppers walk you by with their large shopping bags and oversized sunglasses. Who said you need to spend a lot to feel stylish?

In fact, as a penniless student in the early nineties I would often come to Soho just to take in the beautiful cast-iron buildings here and visit the art galleries housed in these historic structures. Many galleries have since given way to luxury boutiques but the weathered cast iron facades remain a compelling reason to keep coming back. The spectacular Moss Design Museum is a combination of industrial design gallery and store - a preview of where art galleries may be headed in the future.

NoLiTa.

Short for North of Little Italy, the area is tucked somewhere between the swanky shops of Soho and the boho joints of the East Village. Interestingly, so are the kind of shops and cafes here - their character somewhere between boho chic and high end luxe. Nolita is a prime example of the retail phenomenon called curated consumption - the trend towards multi-label merchandise and the eclectic mix of handpicked one-offs - be it vintage jeans, Japanese toys or Scandinavian furniture. It's still early days for Nolita, but I predict bigger things to come for this once unremarkable neighborhood.


Meatpacking District.
What is today described as the cutting edge of retail and commercial space was once a dirty and abandoned part of town. I should know since I used the location to film a short feature about urban desolation. That was then; this is now. These neighborhoods today are some of most fashionable in Manhattan and everyone is racing to put up some boutique, restaurant or hotel here. Enjoy it while the boom lasts.

New York is every bit as stylish as Paris but the fascination with the city of lights is real in this town. Pastis, a French bistro in the Meatpacking district, is always full but well worth the time in line if only for their wonderful moules (mussels) and wine. The surrounding boutiques of cult designer brands is a great alternative to the big brand stores of Soho as well.